| Cheyletiella mites are susceptible to a variety of insecticidal treatments, which may be administered by your dog's vet, or may be done at home. Success has been reported with selenium sulphide shampoos, or dips using amitraz, lime sulfur, or pyrethrin. The time between treatments, and the duration of the total treatment period are different for each formula, and the manufacturer's specific instructions should be followed. |
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| Successful eradication of the cheyletiella infestation can be challenging due to the infectious nature of the disease, and due to the mite's ability to live up to two weeks free of a viable host. Therefore in a multi-pet family, all the animals should be treated simultaneously, and the environment should be treated with a residual insecticide as well (environmental flea control sprays are usually effective). |
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| With cheyletiella, there is also the risk that the mites will migrate to a human host. This may occur as a result of direct physical contact with an infested animal, or through clothing. Humans will develop an extremely irritating dermatitis in response to the mite, however the problem is usually self limiting. Humans do not provide the most hospitable environment for the mites, and consequently one full life cycle (3-4 weeks) is usually the duration of the problem unless there is reinfection through continued contact with the afflicted animal. |
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| Like cheyletiella, sarcoptic mange is also extremely contagious. The incredibly unattractive sarcoptes scabeii mite burrows into the dog's epithelial layer creating a virtual honeycomb of tunnels over a period of about ten days. While these tunnels are being constructed, the mite lays approximately 50 eggs and then dies. The eggs hatch within 3-8 days, and the young mites stay concealed in the tunnels consuming the serum (clear component of blood) that leaks into the tunnels through the damaged tissue. These larval mites become viable, egg-laying adults within 10-12 days, and the cycle begins again. | | 
sarcoptes scabeii |
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| The burrowing nature of the sarcoptes mite causes intense itching, and the dog's constant pawing, scratching and biting (often to the point of self-mutilation) leaves a trail of denuding (hair loss) and open lesions. As serum leaks from the mite's tunnels, pale yellowish, crusty scabs form. Gradually hair loss becomes more significant, and bloody scabs form around the lesions. |
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| Eventually, the lesions become sites for secondary, bacterial infections. Although this is not a pretty picture by any stretch of the imagination, many dogs are able to sustain a limited infestation of the mites without ever displaying the classic lesions. This may be due in part to the vigor of the individual's immune system. In these cases, the dog may suffer constant itching year round, and allergies may be the incorrect diagnosis as the burrowing mites frequently are not discovered in routine skin scrapings. For this reason, treatment for the mites is often based on presumption since a definitive diagnosis frequently cannot be reached. |
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| Although sarcoptes is vulnerable to externally applied insecticides and parasiticides, none of the know formulations are effective in destroying unhatched eggs. Therefore two or more treatments are necessary to first stop the egg production, and then later to eliminate newly hatched larva. All treatments should begin by the removal of the hair from affected areas, and a good anti-seborrheic shampoo should be used to help break down crusts and skin oils that would otherwise impede the treatment. |
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| Clinically, the drug of choice for treating a sarcoptes infestation is Ivermectin. Ivermectin is a potent anthelmintic developed for use on cattle, and may be administered by injection or orally. Most recently, selamectin has also become favored for battling sarcoptes. Belonging to the same class of drug as Ivermectin, selamectin is used topically and is marketed by Pfizer under its tradename Revolution. |
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| Although these drugs may have there place in modern veterinary science, it is important to note that both of these formulations may be deadly to your dog. Both drugs are designed to eliminate parasites by direct action on the invertebrate nervous system, resulting in neurotoxicosis. Unfortunately, certain breeds possess a genetic mutation which allows such neurotoxins to accumulate in the brain. To these dogs, normal therapeutic dosages of the drug will induce death. Breeds known to have this mutation include Collies, Australian Shepherds, English Shepherds, Shetland Sheepdogs, Old English Sheepdogs, McNabs, Long-haired Whippets, and Silken Windhounds. ( A separate report also indicates that Beagles may have a potentially lethal sensitivity to Ivermectin and other drugs of this class.) |
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| Sarcoptic mange is easily transmitted from dog to dog by direct contact. However because the mite is capable of living free of the host for up to 22 days (in cool, humid environments) direct contact is not necessary for the disease to spread from animal to animal. Therefore, as with cheyletiella treatment must simultaneously include all of the household animals, as well as the animal's environment. |
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| Sarcoptes is not picky about hosts, and will easily migrate to human companions causing a particularly uncomfortable condition know as scabies. Generally, treatment focuses on providing relief from the symptoms rather than eradication of the parasite since the mite cannot complete its life cycle aboard a human host. The affliction among humans is therefore, self-limiting and can be expected to run its course within the three week life-cycle of the mite. (Unless of course there is continued re-infection through contact with an infested dog.) |
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| Unlike cheyletiella and sarcoptic mange, demodectic mange is not contagious. Generally a nocturnal creature, the demodex canis mites bury themselves in individual hair follicles. The female demodex is a very territorial creature, and one follicle becomes 'home'. Here she lies in wait for a wandering male. (This can be a long wait as their eight little legs only propel them at rates of 8-16mm / hr.) Once mated, the female returns to her follicle where she lays a clutch of eggs, and then dies within 4-5 days. It is estimated that the demodex takes 14.5 days in transition from ovum to adult at which point the cycle of life begins again. | | 
demodex canis |
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| Demodex has specially developed mouth parts which allow the creature to pierce cellular membranes, and feed directly on cytoplasm. As the population within each follicle grows, and the cells lining the follicle are 'sucked dry' by the organisms, it is presumed that the follicle enlarges, eventually loses viability and the hair shaft falls out. |
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| Also unlike cheyletiella and sarcoptes, the demodex canis mite is a normal inhabitant of dogs skin, and can usually be found in small numbers on healthy animals. Under normal circumstances, this is a fairly harmonious relationship. However, on occasion there is a sudden, dramatic increase in the population size of the mites. During such 'blooms' the familiar clinical symptoms may be evident. The trigger for these blooms is not well understood. At one time popular thought amongst the scientific community placed the blame on immunological suppression. Although experts agree that a diminished immune system facilitates a bloom, they no longer believe it to be the trigger. More current thinking is that the trigger lies either in the body's response to stress, or some other hormonal event. |
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| Another big unknown with demodex is the method of transmission. Laboratory attempts to induce transmission via direct contact have failed. And yet it is generally believed that the mites are transferred from the nursing mother to newborn pups during their first three days of life. Although this is a possibility, it leaves some serious questions of genetics (of the mite) unanswered. |
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| In many cases, the first sign of a demodex bloom becomes apparent as hair loss around the nose, lips, or general muzzle area. As the infestation worsens, the underlying skin may appear scaly, wrinkled, and markedly red (hence the name 'red mange'). The disease may stay localized in which case there is a good chance that it will heal itself within six to eight weeks. On the other hand, additional areas of hair loss may begin to present themselves, notably around the eyes, the belly, and paws occasionally become involved as well. If there are several such patches presenting, the disease may be moving into the generalized form. If the dog is under one year of age, there is still a 30% - 50% chance that the disease will resolve itself. In dogs older than one year, a spontaneous cure is very unlikely and prompt and aggressive treatment is called for. | | 
dalmation with demodex |
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| Often, the disease will move to a pustular form in which lesions appear in the areas of hair loss, and secondary bacterial infections develop. Clearly defined abscesses may form, and there may be crusty scabbing of leaking serum and excessive sebum. This is a condition of misery for the dog, and additional antibiotic treatments will most likely be necessary to control the pyoderma (skin infections). Despite the urge for immediate relief, corticosteroids are a bad choice of treatment at any point in the disease's progression. The steroids will only further suppress the dog's immune system, and give the mites free reign. |
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| Fortunately demodex is no longer treated with 'burnt motor oil' and many effective topical treatments and dips are available. Additionally, good success has been achieved with Ivermectin, however the same warnings raised above in our discussion of sarcoptes apply. An aggressive treatment may call for both the use of an anthelmintic such as Ivermectin in addition to dips with products such as lime sulfur, Mitaban, or Amitraz. Additionally, trimming the remaining fur from the affected areas and removing as much crusting as possible with an anti-seborrheal shampoo will definitely potentiate the effectiveness of the dip solutions. Despite all best effort though, occasionally a case occurs where the dog is totally non-responsive to treatment. These cases are rare, but must be dealt with humanely as the dog will suffer incredibly, mostly from self-mutilation and secondary infections which will eventually become systemic. |
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| In summary, of the three forms of mange, only cheyletiella and sarcoptic are contagious. In both cases successful erradication of the mites depends on the simultaneous treatment of all household animals as well as treatement of the environment in which they live. Both of these forms of mange can be transmitted to companion humans, and are capable of created a miserable but self-limiting condition. Conversely, the non-contagious nature of demodex and the poor survivability of the mite off the host, allow treatment of this form to focus solely on the afflicted animal. In many juvenile onset cases of demodex, treatment may not be necessary if the infestation is localized. All three forms of mange respond well to a variety of moderately safe dips and topical treatments. Additionally, injected or oral doses of common parasiticides such as Ivermectin may be used to treat the problem. Care should be exercised in utilizing this last option as several breeds have been shown to have a toxic sensitivity to this class of drugs. With these dogs, products such as Ivermectin and Revolution (selamectin) should not be used. |
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Health Neem
Modern research has found an age old cure. |
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In India, Neem is not considered a plantation tree. Consequently, it primarily grows wild along the fringes of farms and roadsides. Also found along hillsides and providing shade around rural homes, this tree has been renowned as a healer of the sick. In fact, in the Sanskrit language, the word for the Neem tree is "arishtha", which literally translates to "reliever of sickness".
The legacy of this innocent tree does not stop in India either. In the 1920's the Neem treem was introduced into Africa, and in today's version of Kiswahili (a prominent East African language) the word for Neem is "mwarubaini," which means "40 cures." And here in the US, the Board on Science and Technology for International Development (a department of the National Research Council)
published a report entitled "Neem: A Tree For Solving Global Problems".
| | 
neem tree fruit | |
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| Neem has become of great interest to dog owners as the cold-pressed seed oil contains a wonderfully effective, natural insecticide and ectoparasiticide (external parasites). The chemical found in the seed oil is azadirachtin, and works by disrupting the insect's normal molt and growth cycle. Denying the insect the ability to mature, disables them from reproducing. This oil has been used quite effectively on fleas. In initial trials, neem oil dilutions were used to spray-treat captive apes with flea infestations. Within 24 hours of the first treatment, nearly 95% of all larval forms of the parasite were destroyed. When treating dogs and cats, a dilute spray may be used for bedding areas, or applied directly to the animals coat. Or alternatively, 2ml (roughly ½ teaspoon) may be combined with 8oz of your favorite mild shampoo. |
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| It would be easy to fill an entire page with information about neem, and we will leave that for perhaps another time. The real reason for mentioning it now is its potential use in battling canine mange. We here at the bakery have personal experience with this. Our second sheltie pup, Kira appeared wonderfully healthy when we first got her. However at the age of 6 months she developed a small patch of hair loss on her muzzle, just below her nose. We first noticed this small denuded patch on a Friday, and made arrangements for her vet to see her on Monday. By Monday, the patch had already spread to involve the area on the underside of Kira's chin. |
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| Kira could not receive any of the Ivermectin class drugs because of her breed, and her vet started her immediately on Interceptor and weekly lime dips. Understand, that Kira was at that time a 20 pound dog, and she was receiving Interceptor in the recommended dose for a 100 pound dog... she was getting this dosage every single day. This is roughly 150 times the normal dose! This went on for six months, and Kira's mange got progressively worse over this period, spreading to involve her whole head, all four paws, her belly and hind-quarters. Also during this period, Kira was borderline psychotic, and it wasn't until afterwards that we learned of the possible neurological effects of the Interceptor and the dips. |
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| We began doing a lot of research, and found what sounded like a very reasonable, natural course of treatment. This treatment involved large doses of immune boosting vitamins and fatty acids, coupled with topical applications of a blended ointment containing Neem oil. We presented this to our vet who said that if we stopped the dips and Interceptor therapy, Kira would be dead within six months. We decided to go forward with the natural treatment, since Kira was not responding positively to the standard veterinary medicine. |
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| We stopped the dips and the Interceptor cold turkey and began Kira on her daily regimen of vitamins, minerals and fatty acids. Faithfully each night we rubbed the Neem oil concoction into all of the numerous areas of hair loss. Within a two weeks of this new treatment, we could swear that we were noticing new hair growth in some of the affected areas. Within a month, Kira's personality had almost returned to normal. And after just four months, Kira had no visible hair loss... anywhere on her body. |
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| The immune boosting therapy filled our kitchen counter with pill bottles, and feeding time was a genuine ordeal to make sure that all of the necessary elements were being included with Kira's food in the right proportions. The Neem oil concoction was fairly odorous (not always pleasant) and Kira's bedding and fur were oily from the ointment. It was a lot of hard work, and probably would not be the treatment of choice for most people, however it worked where 'modern medicine' was failing. And, it saved our dog without artificially poisoning her. Have we bought into the 'miracle' of Neem oil.... absolutely. | | 
a mange-free Kira |
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| If you would like to read more about the specific therapy that we used on Kira, you can find excellent information on the Akita Rescue page, speficially www.akitarescue.com/treating%20demodectic.htm. Or, please feel free to drop us line and we can send you what we have accumulated. |
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| August 2005 |
|
| Health!
Got Fleas? |
| Part one of our two-part article on fleas and flea treatment. |
|
| As you may have noticed, flea season is in full swing! This pesky period varies greatly with geographical location, however here in the states it is generally thought of as stretching from July to October. Most dog owners know that fleas are small, boingy, elusive, impossible to crush, and that they cause a lot of itching and scratching. But there's more to a flea than just that. They're really quite amazing and marvelously adapted little creatures. Taking a few minutes to learn more about them, their habits, and their life cycle may help you combat these little, unwanted house guests. |
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| Fleas enjoy nearly world-wide distribution. In fact, there are over 2,000 different species of fleas spanning the globe. Here in North America, we are fortunate to have only 300 species (roughly) to deal with. However despite the number of unique species, there is one clearly predominant flea which is responsible for the majority of our pet's irritations... that is the cat flea, or Ctenocephalides felis. (The dog flea is not frequently found here in North America, however is quite popular in Europe.) Don't let the name fool you, the cat flea is equally at home aboard both cats and dogs... or mice, or hamsters... Actually the cat flea is not very picky about its host. | | 
ctenocephalides felis |
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| If you manage to spot a flea, you will find that they are not difficult to identify. As we already know they are small, with fully mature adults ranging from 1mm (25 per inch) to 3mm (8-9 per inch).Their coloration is generally a dark, reddish-brown hue and they have hard, wingless bodies. Their bodies are flattened like an angel fish, which allows them to quickly and easily move through feathers and fur. There are three pairs of legs, with the hind legs being powerfully built for running and jumping. In fact, these little track stars can typically jump 13 inches (horizontally). Scaling that up to human proportions, it would be like you crouching down and jumping 450 feet (the length of 1 1/2 football fields). |
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| Once onboard the family pet, an adult flea releases a minute amount of saliva onto the dog's skin. The saliva softens the skin tissue, and stimulates capillary blood flow in the immediate area. The flea then pierces the skin utilizing its specialized mouth parts, and partakes of a blood meal. After feasting, the female is ready to start laying eggs. Fifteen to twenty eggs are deposited loosely amongst the dog's fur each day. (The egg laying continues for anywheres from 4 to 25 days, and then the flea dies.) The white, ovular eggs are roughly 0.5mm (1/50 inch) in length, and have a smooth and dry surface allowing for poor adhesion to the fur. |
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| Because the eggs do not adhere to the fur, they easily drop off the dog into the surrounding environment. They fall onto dirt, grass, bedding and carpet with the majority of them settling in the dog's favorite sleeping area. Within two days, the new eggs hatch, and the eyeless larvae emerge. The straw-colored larva is worm-like with a brown head, and up to 1/4" in length. For the next five to fifteen days, the larva will live on | | 
flea larva |
| the ground or in the carpet, feeding on a variety of organic debris. The larva develop best in a warm, moist environment and prefer a relative humidity greater than 75%, and a temperature between 70 and 90°F. And despite the fact that they are eyeless, they avoid light and tend to seek out dark areas. |
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| Once the larvae develop fully, they spin a silky cocoon around themselves as they enter the pupal stage. The fibers of this cocoon are sticky, and bits of dirt, hair, and other debris stick to the cocoon providing effective camouflage. Inside this cocoon, the flea will develop to adulthood, a process which takes roughly two weeks. | | 
flea pupae |
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| Inside the silken cocoon, the fleas develop extraordinary sensitivity to heat, vibration and carbon dioxide. Using these powerful tools, the flea is able to determine that a potential host is nearby before emerging from the cocoon. This is important, because once the flea leaves the cocoon, |
| it only has 5-7 days to climb aboard a host, otherwise it dies. However inside the cocoon, the flea is in a physiological state similar to hybernation and the fully matured adult may remain in this state for almost one whole year. |
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| Fleas have poor eyesight, and once they emerge from the cocoon, they rely primarily on air currents and carbon dioxide to locate a host. If the new host is not in the immediate vicinity, the flea may jump up and down several hundred to a thousand times presumably in an attempt to land aboard a passing host by chance. |
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| Once the adult flea is onboard a host, it partakes of a blood meal and the cycle begins anew. Interestingly enough, although the complete life cycle of a single flea may span several months, the only life stage spent living on your dog is the adult stage. Additionally, looking at an overall flea population, only 5% of the total population are adults and living on your dog. So, if your dog has five fleas taking up residence, then statistically there are approximately 50 eggs, 35 larvae, and 10 pupae living in your carpet, pet bedding, or yard. In other words, if your dog has fleas, your house has fleas too. And, your flea dilemma is somewhat like an iceberg.. the part that you see (living on your dog) is just a very small portion, and the bulk of the problem is lying hidden below the surface. |
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| Generally speaking, fleas are usually no more than a nuisance. The flea's bite is painless, and is usually not even noticed by the dog. However, many dogs do have an allergic response to the flea's saliva, and this can cause the intense itching (flea allergy dermatitis, or FAD) that often accompanies a flea problem. In fact, in a highly sensitive dog, the bite of a single flea is capable of producing a noticeable reaction which may last up to a week. Additionally, if the flea population is large, and the dog is immunologically sensitive, there may be enough biting and scratching to create open sores, which may then become sites for secondary bacterial infections. |
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| As an additional consequence, fleas may also act as an intermediate host for the common tapeworm. In fact, the tapeworm's life cycle cannot be completed unless the eggs of the tapeworm are swallowed by flea larva. The bite of an infected flea will not infect the dog, however when the dog responds to the itching by licking and biting, the flea is often accidentally ingested. Inside the dog's digestive system, the flea's body is broken down and the tapeworm eggs are released and soon hatch. (Although tapeworms most commonly affect dogs and cats, it is not unknown for small children to occasionally develop tapeworms by accidentally ingesting a portion of an infected flea.) |
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| In some areas of the country, fleas may contribute to even more serious problems. In areas of the desert southwest, rodents still carry bubonic plague, and fleas are the primary vector for transmitting the disease from rodent to rodent. Since fleas are not particularly host-specific, an infected flea will occasionally find its way to a human, sometimes directly and sometimes through a household pet. Although deaths from bubonic plague (among humans) are rare in our time, typically several cases are treated each year. | |  |
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| Additionally, fleas are responsible for transmitting the microorganism (rickettsia typhi) responsible for murine typhus. Generally blamed on the oriental rat flea, this disease enjoys world-wide distribution. Most common in humid tropical regions, it can also be contracted in temperate zones during the hot summer months. Animals or humans who frequent areas with sizable rat populations, especially harbor and riverine environments may be at risk for exposure to the agents responsible for this febrile (feverish) disease. The more common cat flea may also serve as a vector for the rickettsia felis microorganism which causes a similar disease amongst humans and their companion animals. |
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| At best, fleas are a nuisance, and at worst they may be responsible for transmitting potentially serious diseases. In any event, they are undesirable little creatures, and nobody wants to share their home with them. This is obvious by the fact that Americans spend over one billion dollars every year to either prevent or eliminate fleas. There are a variety of products available and methods described which claim to erradicate this little parasite, but are they effective? |
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| As we hinted at earlier, the real trick in dealing with a flea infestation is not just erradicating the adult fleas living on your dog, but also eliminating the countless eggs, larva and pupae that are hiding in and around the household. A few products claim to be the only treatment necessary in dealing with flea infestations, however (especially in multipet families) this battle is best waged on two fronts. First using one type of product directly on your dog in order to kill the adult fleas and give Spot some relief, and secondly treating the enviornment in order to eliminate the other life stages. |
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| We stated earlier that flea control represents a one billion dollar market in the United States alone, and as you can imagine there are a staggering number of products available. It's simply not possible to cover each of these products in detail, however next month we will look at some of the more popular treatments, their effectivities and their associated advantages, disadvantages, and possible dangers. Stay tuned, and come back next month for part two of our discussion on fleas and flea control. |
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Warning Summer Heat
Asphalt is no friend to our dogs... or their feet. |
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| In today's modern age, asphalt is everywhere.. and unfortunately, each day
brings us more and more in the form of new roadways and parking lots. In
fact, in the United States alone the annual usage of asphalt is estimated at
70 billion pounds. |
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| If your neighborhood is like ours, many of your streets
have no sidewalks, and folks are likely to walk their dogs out in the
street. In the summer heat, asphalt can be harmful to our pets in a couple
of different ways, although it's dangers are often overlooked by most pet
owners. |
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| A year ago, a study was conducted on various Phoenix parking lot surfaces
and the results were reported in the Journal of Arboriculture. Although it
may seem that the findings were little more than common sense, the study did
a fine job of illustrating the potential effects of asphalt surfaces on the
surrounding plants and animals. | | 
most Texas roads (summer) |
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| Here's what they found -
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- maximum temperature reached 149° F
- asphalt temperatures peaked hours after the air temperature high (about 2pm)
- concrete sidewalks were found to be 22° cooler than asphalt
- grassy areas were almost 50° cooler than asphalt
- shaded areas were about 36° cooler than those in direct sunlight
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| There are some important lessons here. First of all, 149° is hot enough to produce severe blistering. Even though a dog's sensitive foot pad is covered with a thickened protective layer, enough time in contact with hot asphalt can cause painful damage to the underlying tissue. When burned, the outler layer of the pad may become red and ulcerated, or it may seperate from the pad and form a loose flap. This is a painful condition for your dog, and unfortunately there's not much that can be done for it. The pads do not hold sutures well, so your vet may try to adhere the loose flap to the pad with a wound glue. Aside from this emergency procedure, the only other treatment is to apply liberal antibiotic ointment to the burned area and cover the foot with a sock or light bandage. Eventually the pad will heal and a new protective layer will form. |
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| Secondly, don't assume that the asphalt is safe simply because the hottest part of the day is past. The temperature of the asphalt lags the air temperature by 2-3 hours. Although the air may be cooling down, the asphalt may be just reaching it's maximum temperature for the day. |
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| Thirdly, if you have to walk on a hard surface, choose concrete sidewalks over the street. Sidewalks made of concrete are much cooler (22 degrees) than the road surface. |
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| And finally, if you have to stop and talk with your neighbor, or just take a rest let your dog find a nice piece of grass. The grass is about 50 degrees cooler than the asphalt. If there is no grass available, the next choice would be to find a shaded area for your dog to rest since areas |
| with no direct sunshine are 36 degrees cooler. Lastly, if no shade is available go for the concrete. While you're chatting, be sensitive to your dog's comfort level. If he's doing a lot of 'nervous' pacing, it could be because his feet are too hot. | | 
one style of dog boot available | | | For those city dwellers who have a hard time escaping hard man-made surfaces, there are a variety of protective foot-gear available for dogs. Look for one with a good thick sole, and it should protect your dog's feet from the worst of conditions. And if you're worried about the expense, the foot-gear will, in many cases be less expensive than an emergency clinic visit with a lame friend. |
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| Last but not least, remember that even with protective foot gear, asphalt is not an ideal environment for anybody for extended periods of time. Especially if you walk briskly or jog with your dog, be mindful of your dog's water needs. The heated air directly above the road or parking lot surface will only serve to dehydrate your dog faster, and vigorous activity will speed the process as well! For long outings consider carrying a collapsible water bowl and some fluids for your dog. If he doesn't always drink enough water, try a sports-drink product like K9 Quenchers. The flavors they impart to the water will entice your dog, and they provide vital electrolyte replacement as well. (K9 Quencher supplies sports drink mix to all the Texas Border Patrol dogs!) |
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| September 2005 |
|
| Health!
Got Fleas? |
| Part two of our article on fleas and flea treatment. |
|
| Last month, we discussed the life cycle of the ever-pesky flea. We discovered that the flea has a fairly common life for such creatures, passing from egg to larva, through a pupal stage, and on to adulthood. This month we will talk about controlling the flea population, and as we will see, understanding the life cycle of our enemy is an important key to success in limiting their numbers. |
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| Dealing with fleas can be broken down into two distinct programs, one of prevention, and one of eradication. Prevention focuses primarily on ensuring that fleas stay off of our dogs (and consequently do not enter our homes), and eradication deals with eliminating fleas from our dogs, homes and yards once an infestation is established. We are all familiar with the old expression, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". This is prudent advice in the case of fleas as prevention is not terribly difficult, however eradicating an established population can be an extremely frustrating and long-term battle. |
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| Go to any of the big-box pet retailers, and you will find a dizzying array of flea related products... not surprising as Americans annually spend literally billions of dollars on flea control. Available are pills, medicated collars, spot-on products, medicated shampoos, rinses, mists, powders and even a handy anti-flea wipe that comes in a single-use foil packet. | |  |
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| Many of these products are effective deterrents of the flea. Their effectiveness is determined primarily by the chemicals employed, and the method by which these chemicals are distributed about the dog's body. The majority of these treatments utilize a botanical insecticide known as pyrethrins, some utilize permethrin, and some contain tetrachlorvinphos. In addition, there are a host of other insecticidal agents, and insect growth regulators employed.. (the list is too long for us to discuss all the active ingredients in use). |
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| Pyrethrins is a chemical compound which is extracted from pyrethrum flowers, specifically of the family chrysanthemum cineraraefolium.... otherwise known as the chrysanthemum. Although it has a purely botanical derivation, pyrethrins is a potent neuro-toxin and is used because it has excellent knockdown characteristics. (Knockdown is a term used to describe a product's ability to kill a flea quickly upon contact.) Technically, it is a depolarizing agent which disrupts the transmission of electrical signals along the nerves. Although the chemical is classified as only "moderately toxic", its Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) cites symptoms of ingestion to include nausea, cramps, vomiting, diarrhea, dizziness, loss of coordination, tremors, and loss of consciousness. The MSDS also warns that pyrethrins can cause skin irritation, and that repeated contact may cause dermatitis or other allergenic responses. Ironic, since the product containing the chemical is designed to protect the dog's skin by reducing flea induced irritation. | | 
chrysanthemums |
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| Permethrin is a synthetic pyrethroid compound. Meaning that it is a man-made chemical compound similar in structure and function to pyrethrins. Products containin permethrin are generally assumed to be safer and have lower toxicity than those containing pyrethrins. However, the MSDS for permethrin contains the same list of symptoms possible with ingestion. Along with nose bleeds, and intermittent convulsions. Interesting features of permethrin (according to the MSDS) is that it is capable of producing an allergic reaction in some individuals, and if inhaled has been shown to cause hyperactivity. |
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| Tetrachlorvinphos was first produced as early as 1966, and was most commonly used as an insecticide on livestock. Although this compound has not been classified as a carcinogen, it has been shown to cause tumors in the liver, thyroid, and adrenal glands. Most of the tumors found during laboratory testing were classified as benign (at least so within the duration of the experiments). In human cells, it has been shown to cause chromosomal damage. This being as it may, at this time only "limited evidence" indicates that tetrachlorvinphos may be carcinogenic, consequently it is still available to the consumer. |
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| In addition to the traditional insecticides, there are also a number of chemicals which are classified as either Insect Growth Regulators (IGR) or Insect Development Inhibitors (IDI). Chemicals such as methoprene, fenoxycarb, pyriproxyfen and lufenuron are either transferred to the embrionic flea by the female who ingests it along with her blood meal, or they make direct contact with one of the developing life stages. These classes of chemicals affect the flea's development. In most cases the undeveloped flea never emerges from the egg or the pupal casing, in some cases the larva is never able to pupate. |
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| The majority of the IGR and IDI class chemicals are generally assumed to be quite safe around mammals. In fact, chemicals such as methoprene are usually recommended for households with infants or small children. However, these compounds have not been in existence very long, and there is the possibility that all the data is not in yet. One of the chemicals, fenoxycarb has already been pulled from production by one company due to laboratory studies which showed that it may be carcinogenic. |
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| Collars, shampoos, mists, rinses, dips and powders all deploy their insecticidal agents topically and generally the toxins utilized in these products are not intended to be absorbed through the dog's skin. Of these products, the collars are particularly good at one thing... transferring your money to the manufacturer. They apparently do little else, and are extremely ineffective flea deterrents. Collars rely on the dog's own natural motions to distribute the flea toxin around the dog's body and bedding. An interesting idea which didn't seem to pan out terribly well. The only products available which seem less effective than the old stand-by flea collars are the ultra-sonic pest collars. Independent laboratory tests of these products proved significantly poor results. |
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| Shampoos seem to perform somewhat better than mists and rinses, most likely due to the penetration, and the amount of time the product is in contact with your dogs fur. All of these products are reasonable effective as a preventative measure (fleas are either repelled, or adult fleas are killed) however, they are easily affected by water. That is, if the dog swims, bathes, or is caught out in the rain, much of the product's effectiveness will be washed away. Additionally, this class of products usually has a very short duration of effectiveness. Some brands of mists may need to be applied every day, or every couple of days, whereas rinses and shampoos may remain effective up to a week. Dips are recognized as being the most effective of these type of topical products, due no doubt to the higher level of toxicity and dosages of the anti-flea agent. | |  |
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| The common downfall of all these products is exposure. Without mincing words, these insecticides are toxic poisons, and the proper use of them allows for residue over your dog's coat and skin. If your dog is like the rest of the canine population, he frequently licks and bites at his coat and skin, setting the stage for ingestion of the toxin. If he sleeps curled up with his nose in his fur, he runs the risk of inhaling the product.. especially so with the powders. Without doubt, the majority of dogs will ingest and inhale only minimal amounts of these products. Amounts which are well below "toxic levels" or "lethal doses", this does not necessarily mean that the product has no effect on the dog or the dog's central nervous system. Unfortunately, dogs can't complain about minor things like dizziness, mild disorientation or headaches. They can't tell us that they have a burning sensation in their throats or that their vision is blurred. |
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| Most spot-ons and pills are systemic, meaning that once applied or taken orally they are absorbed and transported around the entire body. Advantage is an exception to this. Although a spot-on product, Advantage is not systemically absorbed. Instead it is transported over the dog's skin by diffusion. The area where the product is introduced can become quite greasy, and remain that way for several days while the formula diffuses. Most spot-on flea preventatives contain permethrin as the primary active ingredient, again Advantage differs in that it employs imidacloprid, a potent insecticide with excellent knockdown. The primary "Advantage" is that the insecticide remains on the dog's skin, and hence the flea is killed on contact and needs not bite the dog to receive the lethal dose. The obvious concern is that your dog will be coated with a powerful neuroinhibitor. This being said, the MSDS for imidacloprid has mild warnings of it being both a skin and eye irritant. The only toxic effects were noted with very high chronic exposures. These artificially elevated levels did eventually cause abnormal heart, thymus and liver weights (abnormal organ size) and abberant liver function. Interesting to note, the lethal dose for imidacloprid seems to be much lower for inhaled rather than ingested product. |
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| Of the insecticidal products, Advantage is one of the most effective preventatives. However, because it is not a systemically absorbed chemical, reapplication may be necessary if the dog becomes wet or is bathed. Perhaps the second most effective spot-on product is Frontline. The active ingredient in Frontline is fipronil. Like Advantage, Frontline is also not systemically absorbed. The knockdown on fipronil is considered to be excellent, and works well on both fleas and ticks, with the added advantage that it's effectivity seems to be unaffected by water. On the down side, the MSDS for fipronil does not make it out to be as benevolent as imidacloprid. Fipronil has two routes of absorption into the body, ingestion and inhalation. In both cases, the toxicity symptoms are behavioral changes and convulsions. Additionally, the MSDS warns that long term repeated exposure is capable of causing liver lesions. Verbiage in the MSDS also indicates that the effects of fipronil may be cumulative. |
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| There aren't many clinical trial results comparing the effectivity of the toxic preventatives with natural botanical products. And, there is a lot of argument between the proponents of natural products such as NaturVet Herbal Flea Powder (rosemary, peppermint, cedar oil, rosemary oil) or Crocodile (rosemary, peppermint, thyme, castor oil, canola oil), and those that claim them ineffective. Still, there are a considerable number of dog owners that swear they keep their pets flea free without the use of potentially harmful chemicals. Usually, these holistically oriented owners argue that healthy animals with a good immune system are not bothered by parasites as frequently as debilitated pets or animals with compromised immune systems. A theory which is generally accepted as true by many holistic practitioners. Expanding on this theory, dogs who are living a raw diet supplemented with premium kibble and immune boosting vitamins and minerals are expected to have fewer flea problems. We at least have found this to be true with our own dogs. | | 
promising herbals |
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| In a previous issue we raved about the magic of neem oil. And neem is being used by some as a flea preventative and adulticide. With guidance from John Conrick's book, "Neem: the ultimate herb", Shirley of Shirley's Wellness Cafe utilizes the following formula; 1 ounce of pure neem oil, 2 - 3 ounces of organic white vinegar, and 4 - 6 ounces of water. To use, thoroughly wet down the dog, and work the formula well into the entire coat. Do not rinse. This formulation is a very effective flea repellent, and also helps promote healing of hot spots. |
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| Dietary garlic is also touted as a good flea repellent. Again, this is something that some swear by and others scoff at. Not everything works for all dogs under all conditions, but if you believe the general anecdotal information about dietary garlic, then you know it does offer some hope. It is important to keep in mind that you may be walking a thin line though, as garlic has been shown to produce hemolytic anemia (anemia resulting from the destruction of red blood cells) when fed in sufficient quantities. Another dietary supplement which shows promise in keeping fleas from setting up residence on your dog is apple cider vinegar (see the article on apple cider vinegar below). |
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| Perhaps the most promising of all the natural preventatives are parasitic nematodes. Strains such as steinernema carpocapsae and others are particularly fond of fleas. These microscopic worms are either purchased freeze-dried or live, and are broadcast in your yard with a hand sprayer or hose attachment. They are completely uninterested in humans and pets, and live only to eat insect eggs and larva. Once the nematodes are broadcast, it may take up to a week, but they will seek out the bad pests and devour them before they are able to infest your dog. Strains of nematodes such as steinernema carpocapsae have the additional benefit of attacking other harmful pests such as german cockroaches, cucumber beetles, corn earworms, black cutworms, fruit flies, fall armyworms, armyworms, sod webworms, codling moths, beet | | 
nematodes attack a mint flea beetle | | armyworms, mole crickets, tobacco budworms, asian cockroaches, cotton bollworms, american cockroaches,artichoke plume moths, and leaf miners. These nematodes are not terribly expensive (around $40 to treat 3,000 square feet) and should be available at local nurseries. |
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| If you already have a flea problem, you obviously need more than preventatives. Once a flea population has established itself, eradication can be extremely difficult and frustrating. Two things are working against you here, first of all the prolific nature of the female flea, who can lay close to twenty eggs each day. And secondly, the nearly indestructible pupal stage of the flea. As we learned in last month's article, a fully developed flea may remain in the pupal casing for several months before emerging in search of a viable host. And, the pupal casing is waterproof making it impervious to chemical sprays. Therefore, once you have an infestation in your house, any of the above options can be employed to kill the adults and the larva, however those fleas in the pupal stage may remain viable for several months before they emerge to repopulate your home. |
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| Usually when presented with an indoor infestation, the first reaction is to set off a fogger in the house. Foggers contain the same sort of insecticidal agents, IGRs and IDIs as discussed above, in a pressurized can. The can is triggered and releases its contents steadily over a specified period of time. Despite what we see on advertisements, foggers actually have poor penetration, and the active ingredients are not well deployed into hidden areas under beds, couches, throw rugs and such. And, as mentioned earlier, the developing fleas in the pupal stage are virtually unaffected. |
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| Clearly, dealing with those fleas in the pupal stage is the key to eradication. However it is only one prong of the overall attack. Complete eradication is only possible if all of the following steps are taken; |
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- All pets must be treated
- All areas of the house which the pets have access to must be prepared and treated
- The yard or other external sources of flea activity must be treated
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| Any of the preventative treatments discussed above may be used to treat the pets. From our discussion last month on the flea life cycle, we know that only adult fleas are onboard the pets. So an appropriate treatment would be a repellent coupled with an effective adulticide. This will prevent the pets from moving the fleas about the house and yard, and will stop the egg production. |
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| Next, all areas of the house that the pets have access to should be prepared. Loose objects should be removed, bedding materials should be washed or replaced, hard floor surfaces should be washed thoroughly with soap and water, and all carpets should be vacuumed well. Studies have shown that a vacuum with a HEPA filter will remove the overwhelming majority of eggs and pupae from the carpet, and the heat and vibration of the vacuum cleaner will entice some of the adult fleas to emerge from their pupal casings. After this careful preparation, the area should be covered with an effective adulticide and larvacide. When applying the insecticide, a hand sprayer is recommended. Hand sprayers take longer and require considerably more effort, however they are more effective at deploying the chemicals to hidden and shadowed surfaces such as areas under furniture or rugs. |
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| For treating interior floor coverings, natural alternatives include diatomaceous earth and boric acid. Diatomaceous earth contains the exoskeletons of millions of microscopic animals called diatoms. These exoskeletal remains are hard and sharp, and are capable of causing damage to the chitinous skin of the insects and their larvae. Effectively the diatoms shred the insects hard skin, and the silica content of the diatomaceous earth then acts as a dessicant pulling moisture from the insect until they die from dehydration. Boric acid is a white powder mined from the Mojave desert. As an insecticide, it is safe enough to use | | 
diatoms | | around children, however it is deadly to most insects. This odorless powder both attacks the insects nervous system, and acts as a drying agent. It has been shown to be quite effective on fleas. To use boric acid on your carpets, sprinkle the powder over all affected areas, and then brush the carpet to settle the dust into the nap. Let the powder sit for one week, and then vacuum again thoroughly. |
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| The yard, especially shady areas and areas where the pets lie or rest should be treated with a stable, long lasting adulticide and larvacide. Avoid compounds such as pyrethrins which are rapidly deactivated by the UV of sunlight. Treatment of the yard is most important during mild, dry weather when fleas thrive, and less critical during wet, rainy weather (flea larva drown easily). The most effective natural treatment for the yard utilizes the parasitic nematodes mentioned earlier in this article. |
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| Whatever treatment you decide on, remember that periodic maintenance will be necessary since the maturing fleas will not all emerge from their pupal casings at the same time. For this reason, treatment of the environment should be repeated within two weeks, preceeded and followed by a thorough vacuuming. If your vacuum uses a collection bag, it should be removed, and disposed of immediately. Bagless vacuums should be emptied and sprayed with one of the previously mentioned insecticidal agents. |
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| We see that due to the amount of time the flea is capable of spending in it's pupal stage, the life cycle must be broken in more than one place for effective eradication. And, the only way to successfully deal with an infestation is a multipronged attack focusing on the adults onboard your animals, the developing juveniles on your floors and pet bedding, and any exterior sources of new fleas. Once the burgeoning population is dealt with, the problem can be kept from reoccuring by consistently applying one of the preventive methods mentioned here. |
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| Health!
Apple Cider Vinegar |
| A very versatile pet care product, straight from Grandmom's cupboard. |
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| Vinegar is a favorite of the French, where it was first produced as a separate industry in the 17th century. In fact, the word 'vinegar' is derived from the French words vin aigre, which translates to 'sour wine'. | | 
Hippocrates |
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| The natural health benefits of apple cider vinegar have been known since the dawn of modern medicine. Hippocrates, commonly known as the father of modern medicine used vinegar as both an energizing tonic and healing elixir as early as 400BC. According to historical notes, he employed a combination of vinegar, honey and various herbs to treat coughs, colds, and other common ailments. | |
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| The apple has long been know to be a nutritional powerhouse, and the natural yeasts and air-born bacteria which produce the primary and secondary fermentations transforming apples to apple cider, and then to cider vinegar add an array of organic acids and enzymes to the mix. Among humans, the list of ailments either treated with or prevented by apple cider vinegar is extensive and includes the following; athlete's foot, high blood pressure, coughs, cramps, dandruff, poor digestion, insect bites, sore throats, ulcers and varicose veins. (To mention only a few!) |
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| The claims of apple cider vinegar's health benefits are age-old. And although recent research has not necessarily proven these claims, it has laid the foundation for understanding them. Modern laboratory analysis has indeed found apple cider vinegar to be rich in beneficial phytochemicals. Important substances such as quercetin, a member of the flavonoid group, currently under study for it's role in cancer prevention and suppression of tumor growth are found abundantly in apple cider vinegar. |
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| In recent years, pet owners have also discovered the magic of apple cider vinegar in the care of their companion animals. And the uses they have found for this 'sour wine' are numerous and varied. Perhaps the most common use is as an earwash. Wetting a cotton ball with a solution of equal parts apple cider vinegar and water and wiping the inside of your dog's ears can help control the growth of unwanted bacteria and yeasts. For dogs who are constantly scratching at their ears, a weekly cleaning with vinegar can help to cure this problem. | |  |
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| Somewhat less common is the use of vinegar as a topical treatment for various skin conditions. After bathing your dog in warm water, rinsing with a solution of one part apple cider vinegar to three parts water can help reduce the suffering resulting from dry itchy skin, hot spots and general skin infections, and can help promote the healing process. Other minor traumas such as mild burns or skin acne can be aided and healed through direct application of undiluted apple cider vinegar, gently blotting the vinegar on with the help of a soft cotton ball. |
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| Many holistic vets recommend a daily dose of apple cider vinegar added to your dog's food or water. A small amount of daily vinegar can help inhibit the growth of unfriendly bacteria in the gut, aid with digestion, and help maintain the appropriate acid/alkaline balance of the entire digestive tract. Additionally, it is suspected that the natural pectin found in apple cider vinegar binds with certain toxins in the stomach and intestines, and allows these toxins to be eliminated rather than assimilated. |
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| Good news for the kidneys and bladder as well.. that daily dose of cider vinegar in your dog's drinking water may just help prevent the formation of certain types of kidney and bladder stones. In fact there are some doctors who believe that a daily regimen of cider vinegar can not only prevent the formation of stones, but actually dissolve existing stones, allowing them to safely pass through the urine. Although this latter claim has not been fully proven, there is promising information being published. |
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| And, good news for the joints too... many doctors and patients believe that apple cider vinegar added to the diet on a daily basis can prevent the formation of mineral crystals which are deposited in the synovial spaces of articular joints, particularly in arthritic patients. As the joints are taken through their range of motion, these crystals cause a painful irritation of the cartilage and synovial membrane. |
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| Perhaps the most interesting benefit of adding cider vinegar to your dog's drinking water is it's effect on ticks and fleas. Many people claim that a small daily dose of cider vinegar keeps their dogs flea free through the worst of the season. Some of this camp claim that the vinegar is exuded through pores in the dog's skin, and this causes the dog to be unpalatable to the flea. Others claim that it changes the pH of the dog's skin, and again makes it usuitable for the fleas. And, it is possible that vinegar causes subtle changes to the blood chemistry, making it less desirable to the fleas. Actually, understanding the mechanism is not as important as enjoying the end result... fewer or no fleas. Does it really work? That's very hard to say definitively, however while many people in our locale are having flea problems this year, we haven't seen a single flea on any of our three untreated (conventionally) dogs. Is it the cider vinegar? Maybe, maybe not... but we're not about to change anything to find out! |
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| And, if you already have a minor flea problem, apple cider vinegar can be used topically to help soothe irritated skin. Simply mix one quart of warm water with two teaspoons of vinegar. Shampoo your dog normally, and then use the diluted vinegar solution as a rinse. In addition to helping ease the histamine reaction produced by flea bites, the additional acidity imparted by the vinegar solution will help deter fleas from biting again. |
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| If you are anxious to try cider vinegar on (or in) your dogs, you must know that not all vinegars are created equal. There are several basic varieties of vinegar available, which are categorized by the food source they are derived from. Balsamic and wine vinegar are both made from grapes, and aged in wooden barrels, malt vinegar is made from grain or malted grain, and rice vinegar is made from... well, rice. Finally, cider vinegar is made from apple cider, or apple wine. |
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| Each type of vinegar has its own proponents who tout its health benefits, but it is the apple cider vinegar with its near 100 identifiable, beneficial components that we are most interested in here. But even among the cider vinegars, there are variations which affect the medicinal value. An ideal choice for healing purposes is one which has been cold-pressed from fresh apples, and is raw.. meaning no heat was used in the process of creating the final product. Furthermore, the popular practice of filtering the finished vinegar produces a product with crystal-like clarity, however it also removes many of the vital nutritional elements. Therefore unfiltered is a superior choice. One company which produces a fine quality organic, raw, unpasteurized, unfiltered apple cider vinegar is Bragg. This is probably the easiest brand to locate, however there are other healthy alternatives such as Eden and Solana, and others. | |  |
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| The health benefits of apple cider vinegar are commercially available in the usual liquid form, or now in a tablet. However, considering all of the extra processing required to condense a chemically complex liquid into a pressed tablet, we would recommend against the tablets. It simply is not obvious that this form is capable of delivering the same nutritional value and content as the original liquid. |
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| The easiest way to introduce apple cider vinegar into your dog's diet is to slip it into their drinking water when they're not looking. Dogs don't seem to mind the additional flavor at all, and the vinegar actually helps keep their water dish clean and free of calcium build-up. As a guideline, the following daily dosages seem to be what most holistic vets are recommending for preventative purposes; |
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- 1 tsp (5ml) for small dogs up to 14 pounds total body weight
- 2 tsp (10ml) for medium dogs between 15 and 34 pounds
- 1 Tbsp for large dogs 35 to 84 pounds
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| Alternatively, you can add the full daily dose to his food. This is particularly easy if you feed wet or ground raw. The added advantage of this method, is that the antiseptic quality of the vinegar will help prevent bacterial growth on the food if it left out and consumed slowly. |
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| Apple cider vinegar has sparked renewed interest among those interested in finding safe, natural, alternative methods of curing common ailments and preserving optimum health. The practical uses are too numerous to mention here. If you are interested in adding apple cider vinegar to you daily regimen either for you pets, or for yourself you can find more information here; www.apple-cider-vinegar-benefits.com/home-remedies.html. |
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| October 2005 |
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| Health!
Ticks! |
| Avoiding these gremlins of the insect world. |
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| During the spring and summer months, dog owners face a bevy of creepy critters trying to make a home. Worms, fleas and ticks all try to gain footholds inside and on our best friends during the warmer months. In autumn, ticks frequently become a dog's main foe because the tick is looking for places to winter over and survive during the colder months. October is the month in which ticks are most prevalent and active in the United States and Canada. Ticks are the gremlins of the insect world... where there's a tick, there's a disaster waiting to happen. And, just like gremlins, they can cause our dogs and us lots of trouble. |
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 An extended life cycle
Ticks are parasitic insects, a bit larger than fleas, being about the size of the head of a pen cap. They are flat, hard-shelled, and shaped somewhat like a crab or a spider. They feed by biting their host, burrowing the head and mouth under the skin, injecting an anesthetic so their bite cannot be felt, and then gorging themselves on blood until they fall off. |
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| The tick has a complicated life cycle, needing three hosts to procreate and a blood meal before it can morph from one life stage to the next. First, the larva hatches from its egg which is usually laid on the ground. The larva climbs a plant or bush, and waits for a small host to pass by. It waits, claws outstretched, grabbing the first mouse, rabbit or mole that wanders by. The larva fills up on its first blood meal, which lasts about four days, and then drops off its host to pupate. | | 
american dog tick larva |
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deer tick nymph | | After shedding its skin, the larva becomes a nymph (neo-adult). It will again look for a small mammal to provide a blood meal, this time lasting for about six days. After dropping off, the nymph will pupate for a second time. After a few weeks, it will emerge as an adult tick. |
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| Again, the insect will be looking for a ride and a meal. However, this time the male does not eat - only the females gorge themselves. Males will mate with the females while they feed, then drop off and die. Once the females have ballooned into the grape-like monsters we sometimes find attached to our pets, they drop off on their own and lay 4,000 or more fertilized eggs on the ground. |
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| If a tick cannot find a meal in any of its stages, it can survive for up to two years while it tries to find a warm-blooded host. Ticks don't have many natural predators, so keeping them at bay becomes our job as pet owners. |
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 Diseases and more
While just the sight of a tick is enough to make most humans do everything they can to avoid them, dogs can't help themselves. Dogs love to go to the places where ticks live: the woods, grassy fields, and leafy bushes and shrubs. Any place you can find dense leafy vegetation, your dog is likely to meet ticks. |
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| Many species of ticks feed off our dogs, and each tends to specialize in particular types of locations - meaning certain species like the woods, while others prefer dense grass. No matter the species, all ticks can and do pass on diseases to both humans and canines. In dogs, ticks are capable of passing on Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis, heptazoonosis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and tick paralysis. |
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- Lyme disease is caused by bacteria carried by ticks. It causes joint and muscle inflammation, lameness and eventual paralysis if not treated.
- Ehrlichiosis is characterized by fever, swollen lymph nodes, eye and nasal discharge, nose bleeds and weight loss.
- Babesiosis can cause weight loss, mouth ulcers, breathing problems, swelling, back pain, seizures and even shock and death. It is caused by protozoa carried by ticks.
- Heptazoonosis is also caused by tick-born protozoa. Its symptoms are bloody diarrhea, muscle swelling and pain, lameness, fever, lethargy and weight loss.
- Rocky Mountain spotted fever usually has a rash associated with the fever, lameness, muscle and joint pain and lethargy. It can be lethal for dogs, as it can lead to brain swelling.
- Tick paralysis is passed on while the female tick is feeding on your dog. This illness is caused by an allergy to the tick's saliva, and in acute cases, can really cause your dog to be paralyzed.
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| In all cases, if you know your dog has been bitten by ticks, you should consult your vet. He or she may want to take preventative measures to head off any potential problems. |
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Remove them.. quickly!
If your dog has been in an area where ticks are likely to be found, your best bet is to thoroughly examine your pet (while wearing latex gloves). For longer haired dogs, use a flea/tick comb to exam the dog's coat. If you find any unattached ticks, pick them off and drop them into a container filled with rubbing alcohol. |
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| If you find attached ticks, you can take a cotton swab and douse them with rubbing alcohol. This should make them come free fairly quickly, and again drop them into a container of rubbing alcohol to kill them. | | 
intricate mouth-parts |
| If the ticks are embedded and feeding, don't try to pull out the tick. Leaving the head and/or mouthparts embedded under the skin can cause further infections. Just douse them with rubbing alcohol, and again, they should dislodge themselves on their own. |
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| If for whatever reason you feel you're not able to remove the ticks, take your dog to your vet. He or she will know how to remove them and treat the wounds to minimize chances of infection. |
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Prevention is key
Keep your dog away from areas where ticks are likely to be very prevalent. If you have to go there, then be sure your dog is treated with a tick preventative first. |
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| Cut down weeds and unnecessary wild greenery that may surround your home. Try to keep branches from heavily wooded areas from overhanging your yard. |
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| Use a topical flea and tick preventative, especially during the spring, summer and fall. Depending on where you live, you may need to use a preventative year-round. Flea collars are no help with ticks, unless the collar specifies that it kills ticks. Most flea collars don't. |
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| A natural alternative to tick prevention is citrus oil. Bathing your dog in a can of formerly frozen orange juice concentrate, mixed with a little of your favorite dog shampoo, will work wonders in keeping fleas and ticks off your dog. However, some dogs have allergies to citrus oils and thus may cause some itchiness and or redness. If you don't know whether or not your dog is allergic, try only bathing a small area, like part of his underbelly, with a little bit of the citrus/shampoo mixture. If he has no reaction within a day or two, then you're okay to try a full-blown orange juice bath. |
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| Ticks present problems you definitely want your dog to avoid. They can transmit diseases to humans as well as dogs, so it's best not to have any contact with these pests. If you keep aware of your dog's comings and goings, treat him with preventatives, and check him thoroughly after going into potentially tick-infested areas, you'll be well on your way to keeping your dog from playing host to one of nature's gremlins. |
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| Ingredients
Montmorillonite |
| What is this mysterious ingredient of super-premium foods? |
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| The difference between grocery-store and premium or super-premium dog foods lies in the processing, and of course the ingredients. Premium foods are derived from premium, (and in most cases) superior ingredients. But many of these beneficial food, vitamin, and mineral ingredients have strange names that usually raise an eyebrow or two. Montmorillonite is a perfect example. Found in some of the best foods available, montmorillonite just doesn't sound like anything we (or our dogs) would normally eat. |
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| In fact, montmorillonite is not something that you will even find on your grocery store shelves. A member of the general mineral group known as 'clays', montmorillonite is more at home in a rock hound's collection than in the grocery. This naturally occurring mineral has some rather interesting properties though, probably the most important is it's ability to bind with (and eliminate) toxins. In past centuries, 'fullers' (now known as dry-cleaners) would knead the powdered mineral into clothes in order to bind and remove lanolin and skin oils. Consequently, the mineral is often referred to as "Fuller's Earth". | | 
montmorillonite |
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| This rather unimpressive looking clay is also considered to be a powerhouse of essential mineral elements. Sometimes called 'living clay', montmorillonite was sought out and used by Native American healers for a variety of ailments, both external and internal. Aside from being a powerful detoxifier, it has been used extensively to treat such conditions as colitis, diarrhea, stomach ulcers, intestinal problems, anemia and a host of other medical concerns. Consisting of mineral elements which promote the production of all enzymes, this clay is considered beneficial to all the internal organs, and in fact to the whole body. |
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| There have been many social and experimental studies performed on the eating of clay, and the findings are quite interesting; |
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- In 1964, a NASA sponsored study indicated that dietary use of clay reversed the damage of osteoporosis in animals.
- In 1991 the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition published an article stating that the Pomo Indians of California were able to survive on a diet of toxic acorns (a staple) as long as the diet was supplemented with clay.
- In laboratory experiments, rats with gastrointestinal distress induced by dietary poisons voluntarily ate clay.
- In a similar study, chimpanzees who consumed toxic vegetation voluntarily ate clay.
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| There are a wide variety of herbal remedies and supplements now available for human consumption that contain montmorillonite clay, each with their own claims and list of ailments treatable with this common mineral. And now, the benefits of this remarkable, natural healing agent are are available to your dogs as well. Nature's Variety brand Prairie dog feeds contain montmorillonite clay along with an impressive list of holistic ingredients. Prairie is an exceptional food that we are proud to carry in the bakery, and is available now! |
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| November 2005 |
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| Health!
Canine CPR! |
| Are you prepared to handle a canine emergency? |
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| Lingering in the back of probably every dog owner's mind is a fear most of us have from childhood. What would I do in an emergency? Can I handle it? Will I be able to do the right things to help save my pet? For many of us, we'd rather not think about such things unless they happen. Unfortunately, unless you're trained, that kind of attitude could be deadly to your dog. But, if you do some homework in advance and teach yourself how to perform doggie CPR, you just may keep your best friend alive and kicking. |
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| As a kid, my most favorite beagle mix, Tiny, came limping home one summer day, not herself at all, and started to cry at the bottom of our stairs. Usually, she was all over the place and would quickly bound up the stairs without question. But, this time she didn't want to do anything except holler at us and scream the "I'm hurt" wail we all know when our dogs get injured. When we picked her up, she screamed once more and collapsed unconscious in our arms. At the age of 9, I had no idea what to do, and neither did my Mom. Mom hurried my brother and me into the car with Tiny wrapped in a towel, and we drove as fast as we could to the vet. By the time we got to there, it was too late for Tiny. She had died in the car from a bee sting allergy, having somehow gotten stung 3 or 4 times while playing outside that day. |
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| Had we known CPR, we might have been able to save Tiny. But, performing CPR on a dog wasn't done back then, at least not where I came from. A dog needing CPR was a dog that wasn't going to make it. |
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| Veterinary medicine has come a long way, and death is no longer the necessary outcome of an emergency in our enlightened times. Veterinarians all over the country now readily provide information on how to resuscitate your canine companion in an emergency. CPR for a dog is NOT difficult, and a technique all dog owners should know. |
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| CPR, or cardiopulmonary resuscitation, is important in an emergency because it helps to keep blood, and thus oxygen, flowing to all tissues and prevent body systems from shutting down. You progress through the steps, one at a time and successively. If the dog revives mid-way, there's no reason to go all the way to chest compressions. You only need to do as much as is required to get the dog awake and breathing on its own. |
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| Knowing how to give CPR to your dog is a bit different than what you might do for a collapsed human, but the principles remain the same: |
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- Call for help from at least one (better two) person who can drive and assist with resuscitating your dog
- Check for a heartbeat
- Check for breathing
- Perform the Heimlich maneuver in case of choking
- Perform chest compressions in the case of no heartbeat
- Get your dog to a vet as soon as possible
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Listen to that Heart
If you haven't done this already, listen to your dog's heartbeat now in a non-emergency situation. Put your ear to your dog's chest and listen for a regular, strong beat. This will give you a baseline to start from, so you know what it SHOULD sound like. In an emergency, if you hear nothing, or a faint or erratic heartbeat, you know there's something very wrong that will likely require CPR. |
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Open Airways and Perform Rescue Breathing
If your dog has a health emergency and is awake, he will very likely be frightened and very agitated. Be aware that the stress of the situation may cause him or her to bite. Be careful! You cannot help your dog if you get injured too. If your dog tries to bite, go to the vet immediately, as the dog may have head trauma that's causing behavioral problems. Even without any head trauma, a biting dog is one that you cannot help and should be left to a vet. |
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| If the dog is not threatening to bite, and is either awake or unconscious, check to make sure his nose and mouth are clear of mucus and blood. If the dog has anything in the nose or mouth, clear it out. A good item to have on hand in your pet emergency kit is a suction bulb. These are available at many pet stores and through most veterinary supply companies. A suction bulb looks like a rubber ball with a small tube coming out of the end. When squeezed and released, the bulb will suck fluids out of the mouth and nostrils as it reinflates itself. |
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| Also, check for any kind of mouth or throat obstruction. Pull the dog's tongue out of the way and check the back of the mouth with both your eyes and your finger. Check carefully, as you don't want to force anything in further. If you can clear the throat and mouth of something the dog has swallowed and choked on with your finger, you're more likely to help him or her to come round quickly. |
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| You can also gently palpate the throat if you think something may be lodged inside which is not visible. If you find an object that feels like it can be dislodged, proceed to the Heimlich maneuver. |
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| If there's no blockage and no head or neck trauma, be sure to extend the head and neck as much as possible to open breathing passages. Even if the dog is breathing, this will make it easier for it to breathe. Try to keep the head in line with the neck as much as possible. If there's head or neck trauma, you must get your dog to a medical facility as soon as possible, as you will not be able to help it with CPR. |
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| If your dog is not breathing, help him to breathe by blowing breath (known as rescue breaths) into his nostrils and lungs. Do this twice, mouth-to-nose. If the rescue breath goes in (you'll know because you can hear it go in the lungs) hold the mouth closed and continue doing this at a pace of about 20 breaths per minute. | |  |
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| With a clear airway and a dog accepting your breaths, you and your helper(s) can also help your dog revive a bit and start breathing on its own by stimulating it while performing the mouth-to-nose breathing. If the dog is not in apparent pain, rub the rib cage, pat it with little slaps, and/or constantly roughly rub any parts of the dog that don't appear to be injured. |
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The Heimlich
To save a choking person or a choking dog, the idea is the same: quick thrusts on the abdomen just below the ribcage may force the object right out of the choking victim. This procedure can also be performed on the way to the vet if you have enough space in your vehicle. |
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Turn the dog upside down with its back against your chest: gravity is your friend, can help expel the blockage. With both arms, give your dog's abdomen just below the ribcage five bear hugs or quick thrusts, and do it as if each one were THE one to dislodge the object. Stop to see if the item has dislodged or come up far enough to be pulled free with your fingers. If not, and you're sure it should be able to come
out - meaning it's not pointed, jagged or any odd shape that might stick in the throat - then continue with Heimlich compressions, five at a time. If after several tries, these fail to dislodge the object, stop and quickly take your dog to the vet. There's no point in trying to give the dog rescue breaths with a blocked throat, as the oxygen won't be able to get to the lungs and you may force it down the throat even farther. |
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| If you are able to dislodge the object, DO start breathing for your dog, following the 20-breaths-per-minute rule and stimulate your dog. |
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The Final Thrust: Chest Compressions
If after finding a dog not breathing and without a heartbeat, you cannot revive it otherwise, perform chest compressions to keep its body systems alive.
Chest compressions should only be initiated as the FINAL step in reviving a dog and should only be done after making sure the airway is clear and open. Otherwise, the dog is not getting any oxygen to its tissues. |
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- First, make sure there's no major bleeding. If there is, try to control it with tourniquets and bandages as necessary. You don't want to force more blood out of the body with the compressions.
- Lay the animal on its right side, with its spine against you.
- Put your hands on the area where the left elbow normally touches the chest—about mid-way down the ribcage. You can use flattened palms or your fingers.
- Compress the chest 15 times, followed by two rescue breaths. The pattern should be three rapid compressions every two seconds. You should push down on the ribcage:
• ½ inch for small dogs
• 1 inch for medium dogs
• 1 ½ inches for large dogs
- Repeat as necessary. If you need to, continue doing it all the way to the vet.
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proper location for compressions |
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| As much as possible, keep calm. If you cannot be calm, ask your helper(s) to take over CPR, and you drive. A clear head will allow the focus to be on saving your dog, and not on hysterics. Stress pheromones from humans will over-stimulate the dog, and could cause it to react badly. Calm, deliberative body language will also reassure your pet that things will get better if it remains calm as well. |
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| Most of the CPR procedures can be performed in a moving vehicle. However, if at all possible, try to do them before taking your dog to the vet so as not to cause further unnecessary injury to the dog in case of sudden stops or jolts. |
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| Be sure to call ahead to whatever veterinary facility you choose. Clinics pecializing in pet trauma are in many cities throughout the United States and Canada, and you'll likely have better success with your dog going to one that does emergency medicine on a regular basis. No matter what facility you choose, be sure to inform the staff of all the particulars of your situation, as well as what you have done CPR-wise and how the dog has responded to your efforts. |
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| Even if your dog doesn't revive before or during the trip to the vet, if you have performed CPR, you have greatly increased the chances your dog will come home to live a long, happy life. |
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| Had we known this when I was a kid, Tiny might have been baying at the moon for many summers to come. My family didn't, and we lost my best buddy to a needless waste. My current canine kids are lucky; I now know what to do if they stick their noses in some flowers and meet some cranky bees. |
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| Ingredients!
Menhaden |
| What is this mysterious ingredient of premium foods? |
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| Menhaden is a common, yet mysterious ingredients found in some premium and super-premium foods. And, unless you grew up in an east coast fishing town you may not be familiar with this particular ocean harvest. |
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| Menhaden is actually a smallish marine fish, and a member of the herring family. Among atlantic fishermen, they are commonly called by such names as pogy, bunker, mossbunker, alewife, and blueback herring. Often cited as one of the most important fishery species, man's use of the fish dates to pre-colonial times. The peoples native to North America taught the colonists of menhaden's value as a fertilizer. The colonists quickly caught on, and used anywhere from 6,000 to 8,000 fish per acre to enrich their crops. | |  |
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| The Menhaden is an extremely efficient filter feeder, subsisting on plankton that it strains from the water as it swims. These fish grown only to about 12" in length, and swim in great schools. They are in turn preyed upon by a wide variety of marine animals, birds, and of course man. |
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| Considered an important link in the marine food chain between plankton and the larger sport and food fishes, these little fish have little appeal to humans. An extremely oily and bony fish, they are considered to have little food value and fetch only about ten cents per pound at dockside. And yet, they are netted in huge quantities every year. It has been estimated that since 1940, the fleets from Maine to Florida have harvested almost 20 million tons. |
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| Perhaps they're not suitable for restaurant fair, however once dried and ground the menhaden produces a very high protein meal. This fish meal is used in a variety of animal feeds including those for chicken, turkey, pigs, and cows. And of course, dog and cat food. |
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| In addition to providing high protein meal, the menhaden are also extremely rich in desirable long-chain Omega-3 fatty acids. Many of the plants which process menhaden into meal also press oil from the fish. The menhaden oil has virtually no fishy taste or odor, and finds its way into a variety of human health products. |
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| Using them primarily for bait or chum, sport fisherman generally consider the menhaden to be a "junk" fish. This name is hung on the little fish because it is not easily consumed by people. However, because it lives solely on plankton, the menhaden is a "clean" fish. And, because it is preyed upon by most everything in the sea, it is has evolved into a strong and fast swimmer meaning good muscle mass, and therefore highly concentrated protein. The high quality Omega-3 oil which is normally found in pricier cold-water fishes is of course and added bonus. |
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| It is no wonder that menhaden is an ingredient in many of the better dog foods. With concentrated, high quality protein for growth and vigorous maintenance, and rich in Omega-3 fatty acids for a healthy cardiovascular system, supple skin and glossy coat, menhaden earns it's reputation as a vital ocean food source. |
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| December 2005 |
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| Health!
New Vaccination Protocols |
| Veterinary schools are changing the way they think about annual vaccinations. |
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| This time of year has most of us are worried about what present goes to whom and whether we can find enough folding chairs to fit around that oh-so-stretched-out dining table. We don't usually have a lot of time to pay much mind to our dogs other than our usual routines: food, water, a little bit of grooming and a quick run out in the nippy air for bathroom break. |
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| This year, it might be time to think about a little more than just roasted chestnuts, sparkling tinsel, big holiday packages and a Milkbone for Fido. As we head into 2006, your next vet visit may be something of a holiday AND a gift for both you and your dog: No annual vaccinations needed! |
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| What? No booster shots for distemper, parvo, rabies and the like? Aren't we always supposed to get our dogs their shots because aren't they always getting into dirty, gross and messy situations that might expose them to a potentially deadly diseases? Apparently, the new answer is loud and clear: "NO!" |
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Changes at the Veterinary Schools
As of 2005, all United States schools of veterinary medicine are now teaching that dog (and cat) immunology is more complicated and more resilient than was previously thought. In fact, the science shows that giving vaccines too often can actually be harmful and injure the natural immune response that our pets have. |
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| The veterinary schools are telling our new DVMs - and updating our older ones - that they should no longer routinely vaccinate all dogs and cats with all core vaccines every year. They should be receiving them in a pattern that mimics how the immune system develops and builds itself…and then be revaccinated only once every three years. |
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| That's right. Once every three years! |
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canine parvovirus | | Vaccines Work How?
Vaccines work in mammals by introducing bacteria, parasites and/or viruses that are either dead or modified so they cannot reproduce inside us. Once we get a vaccine, our white blood cells start attacking the foreign invaders. Since they are either dead or have been rendered harmless, the foreign invaders don't have any ability to fight back, replicate and overwhelm the body's defenses. Out immune system imprints with a memory of these invaders and how it fought them, adding a special response to its repertoire specifically aimed at the particular kind of virus or bacteria. The next time that attacker shows up, the body is then better prepared to fight off the invader. Antibodies - the imprinted memory response mammals create from meeting foreign invaders - are the weapons needed to keep communicable diseases at bay in our dogs. |
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Too Many Soldiers Fighting the Same War!
Is an annual revaccination too much of a good thing? Can our attempts at preventing communicable diseases in our best furry friends be backfiring on us? |
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| Unfortunately, the answers to both seem to be, "YES!" |
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On the forefront of this issue, Dr. W. Jean Dodds, DVM, is a California-based veterinarian who has been a proponent of changing dog and cat vaccine protocols for at least a decade. Practically her entire 40-plus year career has been dedicated to studying animal immunology. After seeing many companion animal patients developing problems that were auto-immune related—diseases caused by the body's own defenses attacking itself—she and others began intensely studying how our pets handled vaccines and whether their immune responses were being compromised by being over stimulated with too much vaccine.
What she and her colleagues have found has become the basis of the new vaccine protocols. When introduced too often, some dogs and cats have reactions that make the immune system start attacking itself and impairing its response to certain diseases. As a yearly vaccine, the research shows core | | 
Dr. Jean Dodds |
| annual booster shots of distemper, rabies and the like have no effect on boosting immunity if the shots have been given before. In fact, the additional booster shots may have made our pets more likely to be sick with something else like hypothyroidism, which can be autoimmune related. |
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| Why? The immunity for most vaccines may last anywhere from 6-10 years, depending on the exposure to viruses and bacteria, the general health of the animal, the breed and the individual dog or cat itself. Given the right set of circumstances, if you keep sending in soldiers to fight the same enemy over and over, you may cause them to flip and attack the body instead. |
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The New Schedule is…
Thus, Dr. Dodds' studies have convinced the veterinary community to change the protocols for vaccinating our companion animals. While there are on-going debates about the efficacy of timing and changing the types of vaccines, right now the core vaccines for dogs are distemper, parvo, adenovirus and rabies. |
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| Dogs, according to the new standards, should be vaccinated at 6, 9, 12 and 16 weeks with distemper, parvo and adenovirus vaccines. They should then be vaccinated again one year after the 16th-week vaccine. The interval then moves to once every three years. |
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| While your state or local law may require you to vaccinate annually for rabies, the new protocol is a rabies shot at 16 weeks, a booster one year later, and a follow-up once every three years after that. You should follow the law and maintain your rabies vaccines accordingly. However, you should also make your vet aware that over-vaccinating is a concern, and that you'd like to know whether they have any information on how the laws in your area can be changed or affected by these new vaccine protocols. Your state health department and/or department of agriculture may not be aware of the new studies showing the need to amend pet animal vaccine schedules. |
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Other vaccines…
There are other vaccines our dogs are often treated with, and these may or may not be appropriate for your dog. These are bordetella/parainfluenza (kennel cough), lyme, leptospirosis, corona, and giardia. All are contingent on the area in which you live, the health of your dog, its activities, local and/or state law, and your dog's breed. Lepto, for instance, is a major cause of anaphylactic shock in many smaller and toy breed dogs and should NOT be given without very good reason. Be sure to talk to your vet to get an understanding as to why and how often they believe one of these other vaccines should be given. If you don't feel comfortable with it and you know of no good reason to do so, the science says you're probably better off NOT vaccinating. But, always consult your vet to make your choice. | |  |
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Don't Neglect Fido—Do Go to the Doctor Regularly
Just because annual vaccines may soon be coming to an end for your buddy doesn't mean you should forget about an annual check-up. All dogs need to continue to maintain an annual check-up schedule with a licensed vet to maintain optimal health. |
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The Future…
Even as we speak, ever more research by Dr. Dodds and others like her is proving the idea that vaccines may need to be given at different intervals and in different combinations. Some research suggests that puppies don't benefit from any shot earlier than 8 weeks. Others say they do, and it should only be for measles and distemper. Still others claim that puppies should wait until they are 10 weeks before they get any vaccines. |
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| Excluding rabies, most core canine disease vaccines are available only as combination vaccines. Manufacturers simply don't make a vaccine that's only for canine distemper and another that's only for canine measles—they are typically combined for both economic and convenience reasons. So, not only do our vets need to be retrained and our laws modified, the vaccine manufacturers may also have to change their products to meet the new standards coming out of this evolving research. |
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| As you can see, there's a lot of change ahead for what we have all taken for granted when it comes to our dogs' basic health. Heading into the new year, do your research, talk to your vet, and give Fido a present he'll really love…a lot fewer shots! |
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| Warning!
Christmas Plants |
| Some traditional holiday plants hold hidden dangers for your dog. (reprinted from November 2004) |
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| With the holidays rapidly approaching, we will soon be filling our homes with the traditional icons of Christmas. For many of us, that includes plants and flowers that are as much a part of Christmas as Santa and reindeers. Unfortunately for our pets though, some of these holiday decoratives present real dangers. |
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| When thinking of Christmas, it's hard to not think of Poinsettias. These beautiful red flowers are second only to Christmas trees in popularity, with millions grown specifically for yuletide decoration. Originally cultivated by Central American Indians, poinsettias were first used for Christmas celebration by Franciscan priests in Mexico. In the 17th century, these priests used the flowers in their nativity processions, probably due to their bright coloration, and their flowering season which coincides with Christmas. |
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| Early in the 20th century a story began of a U.S. army officer whose small child died after consuming a single leaf from a poinsettia plant. Since that time, the myth has propagated, and the flower is now known as being extremely toxic to both people and their pets. |
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| This myth of the poinsettia's toxicity has in fact been highly exaggerated. While it is still a good idea to keep the flower out of the reach of pets, the only effects of ingesting the plant are a mild to moderate gastrointestinal irritation. Accompanying symptoms may include excessive drooling, vomiting, and/or diarrhea. Although this GI upset is not desirable, it is not the fatal reaction that we've come to expect. |
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| One thing to note about the poinsettia, is that when broken, the plant oozes a white milky sap. This sap can be an irritant to both skin and eyes, and especially so to open wounds. Any exposed areas should be flushed well with a mildly soapy solution. |
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| Early Christians believed that the Christmas Rose was created by an angel in sympathy for the little girl who cried because she was too poor to bring a gift to the baby Jesus. The early Christian monks dedicated the flowers to Our Lady, and they have since been a traditional alter decoration for Christmas. |
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| This hardy member of the buttercup family is a genuine threat to pets. Ingestion of the plant material will result in abdominal pain, vomiting, bloody diarrhea and delirium. | |
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| The plant has high concentrations of known toxic phytochemicals, with eight ounces of the plant material being the lethal dose for an average cow. All parts of the plant are toxic, and the above symptoms may be followed by cardiac arrhythmia, tremors, convulsions, coma, and eventually death within 1-2 days. Immediate detoxification is crucial, induce vomiting and follow up with a charcoal slurry such as Toxiban. (There is no known antidote for this plants particular toxins.) |
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| The Christmas Cactus is a native of the Brazilian tropics and has showy flowers which may be white, magenta, pink, or orange depending on the hybrid. The longer period of darkness which occurs during our winter season triggers their flowering, making them a popular holiday plant. Dogs ingesting this plant will experience, abdominal pain, vomiting (possibly with blood), diarrhea (possibly with blood) and mental depression. This plant is considered to be a low toxicity plant, and ingestion of small amounts of plant material usually produces no observable symptoms. |
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 | | The Jerusalem Cherry is a member of the nightshade family and produces white summer flowers similar to those of the tomato plant. In the winter months it is sold as a potted plant, primarily for its long lasting red, red-orange, or yellow fruit. The decorative, spherical fruit are large, measuring from ½" to ¾" in diameter. Highly toxic alkaloids are distributed throughout the whole plant, but are most highly concentrated in the brightly colored fruits. Symptoms of ingestion include mydriasis (dilation of the pupil), tachycardia (rapid heart beat), hypothermia, and convulsions. Severe cases can result in coma and death. | |
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| In olden times, it was believed that Mistletoe sprung to life from bird droppings. The Anglo-Saxon word for dung was "mistel", and the word for twig was "tan". The rough literal translation is therfore "dung on a twig". (I did not make this up.) | |  |
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| The most magical and mystical plant of European folklore, this parasitic plant became a symbol of power and good fortune. The custom of hanging a sprig above a doorway came from the pagan belief that this would prevent witches from entering. To early Christians, this plant was known as "Herbe de la Croix" as some believed it to have been the tree that supplied the timber for the cross of Christ. Hence for its part in the Crucifixion, Mistletoe was condemned to the life of a parasitic vine. | |
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| Of course everyone is familiar with the custom of kissing under a vine of Mistletoe hung in a doorway. But, in accordance with old tradition a berry is plucked from the vine for each kiss. When the berries are gone, there should be no more kissing. Any unmarried woman not kissed under the vine shall remain unmarried for another year. And the vine, stripped of its berries should be burned on the twelfth night. Otherwise the girls and boys who had kissed under it will not marry. |
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| On the dark side, this plant contains proteins called viscotoxins which when ingested have the ability to slow and weaken the heartbeat, as well as constrict the blood vessels. Additional symptoms may include significant vomiting and diarrhea, labored breathing, erratic and non-coherent behavior, and collapse. In some cases, death has occurred. |
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| Holly is a tradition natural garland, commonly strung above doorways, draped over wall hangings, and splashed across the mantle. Often it is used for making the wreaths that decorate our doorways, and the centerpieces that grace the holiday table. | |  |
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| Although beautiful, this plant is moderately toxic. The leaves contain the alkaloid ilicin, and if ingested can cause intense vomiting and diarrhea. | |
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| The berries as well contain both emetic and purgative substances. In some cases, ingestion may also trigger severe mental depression whereas large quantities can induce coma and death. Although exact toxic levels are not known, it is estimated that twenty berries can cause death in a large dog. |
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| A focal point for the holiday celebration is the traditional Evergreen Tree. Most varieties of pines, spruces and firs are not considered toxic. However the needles of some contain natural oils which are capable of producing gastric upset. Additionally, the needles present good opportunity for mechanical injury to the mouth, nose and eyes, especially once they become dry. Additionally, the sap and pitch of some species is capable of producing dermatitis, especially in sensitive tissues such as the lips. |
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| Although more research is needed before a general alarm can be sounded, it should be noted that several varieties of evergreen trees contain isocupressic acid which when ingested can cause pregnant females to abort. This is relatively well-known amongst the ranching community, but the extent to which we should be concerned with Christmas trees and household pets is not known. It's probably best to err on the side of caution, and limit exposure to any pregnant females you may have in the household. |
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| January 2006 |
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| Health!
Coconut Oil |
| Can this age-old tropical staple offer relief for your dog? |
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| Homeopathic treatments can sometimes offer an alternative to or supplement traditional medicine for both man and beast. A current emerging homeopathic treatment is one that was once a part of the daily American diet, but fell out of grace when saturated fats were deemed to be bad for us. This new homeopathic treatment is said to be a 'fixit' for a lot of what ails us all, and is even hailed as being anti-viral, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal. And, likely, you already have some of this miracle cure on hand in your kitchen. |
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| It's coconut, the white flaky stuff you probably used last month for the first time in a year during your annual holiday baking frenzy. More specifically, virgin coconut oil, pressed much like virgin olive oil, is the tropical goldmine that has a lot of people raving. There is some evidence virgin coconut oil, taken daily by mouth, can do a lot of good for both man and dog alike. Virgin coconut oil proponents say it can help Fido with: | |  |
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- Skin and coat issues, bringing out a shiny, full coat
- Arthritis
- Lethargy and overall energy levels
- Bacterial infections, especially of the mouth or skin
- Thyroid problems
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Research says...
Coconut oil was used in the American diet quite extensively until the 1980s, when saturated fats became known for causing cholesterol problems and thus, heart attacks. To cut back on saturated fats, coconut oil has been almost completely excised from the North American diet and replaced by corn, soy and other vegetable-based oils that are supposed to be easier on our circulatory systems. |
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| Proponents of virgin coconut oil say, used in moderate doses, the oil is a fat that our bodies need, even if it is a saturated fat. They point to the lifestyles of Asian-Pacific islanders, noting they use coconut oil all the time, for both cooking and ingested as a homeopathic treatment for medical problems. To whit, Asian-Pacific people have much less incidence of cancer, heart problems, thyroid issues, and other problems that are all too common in the Western world. |
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| Research done in the 1950s concluded that all fat was bad. And still today many people equate fat with weight gain, clogged arteries, high blood pressure, etc. However, we now know certain fats actually help to prevent those conditions and are essential to good health. |
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| Early researchers failed to distinguish between saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated fats. They assumed at the time, that all fats—including coconut oil—were unhealthy because they raised serum cholesterol levels. But, in revisiting those studies, researchers found that hydrogenated, or refined, coconut oil had been used. All hydrogenated oils produce higher serum cholesterol levels, and contribute to greater oxidation and free radicals in the body. (Free radicals are the cells that can cause cancer and other unpleasant diseases.) In fact, further research has shown that excess amounts of trans-fatty acids found in hydrogenated vegetable oils increase the risk of degenerative diseases and other age-related maladies. |
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| Studies have shown that the amount of unsaturated oil in the diet strongly affects the rate at which wrinkled skin develops. Taken internally and used topically, virgin coconut oil is said to be effective at slowing down that process. | |  |
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| Virgin coconut oil is also said to have tremendous antiviral properties. Lauric acid makes up 50 to 55 percent of the medium-chain fatty acids in virgin coconut oil. In the body lauric acid converts into monolaurin, a compound which is adept at fighting viral pathogens, and is also present in large quantities in breast milk, where it protects infants from viral, bacterial and parasitic infections. | |
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| Bottom line: The coconut oil theory is (which is backed by some scientific evidence) soy and other hydrogentated vegetable oils may block the ability for the body to produce and/or use certain hormones necessary to maintain proper internal health. This imbalance then leads to thyroid problems, obesity, lethargy, joint problems, as well as impairing the immune system's ability to fight off certain bacteria, viruses and fungi. Virgin coconut oil has been shown scientifically to override the hormone blocking that soy oil may cause, thus allowing the body to maintain proper hormonal, joint and immune system health. |
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Dog Lovers Are Having Success!
Coconut oil proponents say if it works in humans, it's of course bound to work in animals. While we cannot say for certain that virgin coconut oil is everything the salesmen would like you to believe, there is A LARGE AMOUNT of anecdotal evidence that virgin coconut oil will help your dog live a better, healthier life. |
| Testimonials about virgin coconut oil for dogs: |
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| "Casey is a Chihuahua mix we were given as a gift when she was young. Her hind knees are a bit knobby, and the vet said we would have to watch them as she has a [luxating patella], and she may eventually need surgery. She was hesitant to jump up on the couch or bed and we often assisted her by picking her up. Even though she was a young dog, she acted much older. I began putting virgin coconut oil on her food and it was no time that she began springing up onto everything! The vet was amazed." |
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| "Belkie is a long haired Chihuahua mix, and he was in very poor condition when we rescued him. You could feel every bone in his body, he had several bad teeth, and his coat was very coarse. He cowered around and was very sad. After having him about a month and having some dental work done, his health and attitude improved. However, I still could not get him to stop itching. He did not have one flea on him, but he still itched! I added virgin coconut oil to his food and in no time, he stopped itching, and his coat is shiny, soft and bright..." |
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| "My neighbor has a female Doberman that [she] adores. [The dog] became very ill and could not stand. Their vet said Dobermans often develop 'Wobblers' [a degenerative spinal problem that can lead to paralysis; it is difficult to treat, and often leads to the animal being euthanized because of the difficulty in treament and expense], and there was not much they could do. It was degenerative, and she was given about a month to live. They were, of course, crushed. I never give up and told him to add virgin coconut oil to her food. I sent my neighbor home with a small jar; he was willing to try anything. They were having to force feed her a liquid diet at the time. In 24 hours, the dog was up! Over the course of the week, she continued to improve. He now puts it in her food daily. She no longer wobbles when she walks, and all is right with the world!.." |
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Relief for Canine Thyroid Problems
One of the main issues addressed in pet forums, both in print and on-line, is that dogs affected by either hypothyroid or hyperthyroid may be helped by daily doses of virgin coconut oil. Many pet owners swear by it, and have found success in the tropical extract. |
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| According to several canine health databases, approximately 25 percent of the more than 150 recognized American Kennel Club breeds are affected by thyroid diseases. The symptoms of thyroid problems range from being obese to having problems with digestion and diarrhea to being extremely thin with major hair loss. To handle these problems, most vets prescribe medication that balances out thyroid levels. |
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| However, as suggested by the coconut oil proponents, just a small amount daily (about ¼ to ½ tsp. per 10 pounds of weight) poured over the dog's food is said to clear up thyroid problems. |
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A Miracle Cure?
Is this a cure-all that we can trust? The jury is still out on coconut oil. Much of the "evidence" is word-of-mouth, but yet there is real science behind those who espouse its virtues. Science hasn't caught up with the anecdotal evidence and given us a definitive answer yet on the power of the coconut. So, much like anything else that's not considered mainstream, it might work, or it might not. | |  |
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| If you want to give it a try for yourself or your dog, there are many websites from which to buy virgin coconut oil. You may also be able to find it in your local health food stores. Proponents say to be sure to use virgin or extra virgin oil, as these oils don't cause cell damage. Don't over-do it, and stop giving your dog prescribed medication. Always consult your vet about medication changes, especially if you do see the kinds of improvements you'll find mentioned in many a pet forum. And, if nothing else, a little daily dab of coconut should give Fido a beautiful, thick, shiny fur coat. |
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|
| May 2006 |
|
| Health!
Zinc |
| What's all the hype about this little mineral? |
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| Up until the last handful of years, zinc has been one of the most overlooked of the essential minerals. Recent research however has shown us the value of this metal in promoting proper development, increased wound healing, and even it's ability to reduce the severity of some symptoms of the common cold. Although much of the focus of this research has revolved around supplements and their ability to ease common ailments, the fact is that zinc is truly an essential mineral with a multitude of important functions in the body. |
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| Most recently, zinc has gained visibility with respect to our four-legged friends. There has been much conversation over this little metal, and whether or not our pups are getting enough of it. We've said it before, pet food labeling is a numbers game... and with some of the non-premium feeds, mineral forms of zinc are added to make the analysis look good when in fact only a small percentage of the nutrient winds up helping Spot at all. But first, perhaps we should find out what zinc is, why our dogs need it, and where it can be found. |
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| Zinc is a metal, and one of the many essential minerals. In our bodies and in Fido's, it is found in almost every cell. The presence of zinc stimulates nearly one hundred different enzymatic processes, critical biochemical reactions within the body. It helps to support a healthy immune system, is necessary for proper wound healing, and is needed for the synthesis of DNA. Zinc also helps our dogs to maintain a keen sense of taste and smell, and is key in normal sexual development. | | 
meat, poultry and seafood
are good zinc sources |
| | In nature, zinc is found abundantly in red meat, poultry, and many seafoods (oysters have the highest zinc per serving of any other food). Good quantities of the metal are also found in beans, nuts and dairy products. Many whole grains also contain useable amounts of zinc however, as we shall see in a while, zinc from animal protein sources is more readily absorbable by the dog's digestive system. |
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| How much is enough? |
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There have been many dietary studies, producing a varyiety of results... it seems the minimum amount of daily zinc your dog needs seems to depend on who you ask. Collectively though, the various studies have indicated that the minimal daily requirements are somewhere between 40ppm (parts per million) and 100ppm. This measurement is based on the amount of food your dog eats. To convert this to something more meaningful, 40ppm is roughly equivalent to 18mg per pound of food, and 100ppm is roughly 45mg per pound. The current standard for a dog's minimum daily intake of zinc as adopted by the AAFCO stands at 120ppm, or roughly 54mg of zinc per pound of food.
The table at the right shows a few typical foods, and their total zinc, as parts per million. | |
| food item | zinc |
| ground beef | 35.4 ppm |
| lamb shoulder | 39.7 ppm |
| pork spareribs | 16.7 ppm |
| chicken leg | 17.7 ppm |
| turkey (dark meat) | 29.5 ppm |
| pheasant | 9.62 ppm |
| anchovy | 24.5 ppm |
| oysters | 909.5 ppm |
| peanut butter | 31.3 ppm |
| almonds | 29.2 ppm |
| cheddar cheese | 31.4 ppm |
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| So, how do we know if our dogs are getting enough zinc? Well, the only accurate way to determine whether or not your dog is suffering a zinc deficiency is through laboratory testing. Your vet can help determine if testing is necessary, and order these tests for you. However, zinc deficiency is most likely not a real concern unless one or more of the clinical signs become evident, or if your dog belongs to an at-risk breed. The signs to watch for include;
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· skin lesions
· slow and sparse hair growth
· conjunctivitis
· emaciation
· poor growth
· abnormal sexual development
· keratitis (inflammation of the cornea)
· vomiting
· hyperkeratotic footpads | | 
keratitis |
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| Though not terribly common, zinc deficiencies are indeed possible, and for a variety of reasons. Clinically, deficiencies are found most frequently in larger breeds, and fast growing puppies or dogs experiencing high stress levels. |
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| Some dogs simply have an assimilation problem, and in some cases this may be a predisposition of the breed as with some northern breeds, Great Danes, and Bull Terriers. And, of course there may be uptake problems that relate to diet. To better understand this last item, it helps to know a little bit about how zinc is assimilated by the digestive system. |
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| First of all, large molecules bearing zinc cannot pass directly through the intestinal lining. The first step of the assimilation process is to dissolve the material containing the zinc so that free zinc ions are available. However, zinc in its elementary form is not able to pass directly through the gastric barrier into the bloodstream either. So once in the gut, dissolved zinc combines with special amino acids called zinc binding ligands. The resulting complex organic molecule containing the zinc is now absorbed into the blood plasma, and transported to the target organs. |
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| There are several factors which may affect the uptake of zinc by the digestive system. Studies have shown that high concentrations of certain minerals such as calcium, copper, cobalt and phosphorus can inhibit the assimilation of zinc, possibly through competition for the zinc binding ligands. Further studies have shown that other dietary elements such as starch, fiber, and phytates (salts formed from phytic acid, a normal component of cereal grains such as wheat and soybeans) can slow the uptake of necessary zinc by the dog's digestive tract. Finally, the form of zinc ingested plays a significant role in assimilation as not all forms readily dissolve during digestion. |
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| All zincs are not created equal... |
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| Of the various forms in use, zinc oxide is the most commonly found compound in dog foods, especially in lower price foods. Zinc oxide is an abundant chemical, it is relatively inexpensive, and unfortunately it has very low solubility. In the gut, a small percentage of the chemical dissolves, and consequently much of the zinc your dog ingests ends up fertilizing the back yard. | | 
zinc oxide |
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| The next most frequently found zinc compound in dog foods is zinc sulfate. On the up-side, this particular chemical dissolves quite easily. On the down-side, it has been shown to cause irritation of the gastric lining. |
| In fact, repeated laboratory experiments have shown that mice and rats ingesting elevated levels of zinc sulfate developed gastric ulcers in just thirteen weeks. Test cases with sheep showed gastrointestinal and hepatic (liver) lesions, and with pigs the clinical observations included inflamed gastrointestinal linings and stunted growth. Other studies with rats and felines showed possible involvement of the pancreas as well. Obviously there's more to this formulation than meets the eye. |
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| Synthetically chelated zinc is used far less than oxides or sulfates, and is found primarily in pricier foods. Chelation involves surrounding individual zinc ions with amino acids to buffer, or hide it, and to increase the bioavailability of the zinc. Usually, the zinc is chelated with hydrolized proteins, or naturally occurring proteins which have been enzymatically broken down into their component amino acids. Some manufacturers claim that zinc chelated with hydrolized proteins is usually excreted shortly after ingestion, primarily because the zinc is bound to more than one amino acid chain and must be modified by the body to be utilized. However, laboratory studies have shown a significant difference in zinc uptake between control groups receiving zinc oxide or sulphate, and those receiving zinc proteinate. Dogs receiving the proteinated zinc had far superior reproductive performance than those receiving the inorganic mineral forms of the metal, clearly indicating that the bioavailability of the chelated mineral is significantly higher than either the oxides or sulfates. |
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| Finally, zinc methionine is used in some premium feeds, and has come under scrutiny lately. To the best of our knowledge, there have been no ill effects reported concerning the use of this chelated form of the mineral. However, some argument has been raised concerning its use in foods that claim to be "all-natural". While true that zinc methionine is not exactly natural, it is a compound that may offer an unarguable advantage to dogs suffering from zinc deficiencies. This particular compound is a patented combination of zinc, the amino acid methionine, and sulphate. The result is a molecule which does not need to be modified in order to be absorbed through the intestinal wall. Its bioavailability seems to be optimal. The methionine serves as a natural zinc binding ligand, and allows the zinc to be swept across the threshold directly into the bloodstream. And, since the sulfates remain bound to the metal and its amino acid carrier while in the digestive tract, the gastric disturbances observed with zinc sulfate have not been seen. The center of the argument against its use, is the fact that it is manufactured in the laboratory. |
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| To supplement, or not to supplement... |
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| So what's the bottom line? Do you supplement your dog's diet with zinc, or change foods to those containing a form of the mineral with higher bioavailability? Unless you are definitely observing some clinical signs of zinc deficiency, the answer would have to be "no".... even if some of the symptoms were evident, it would make sense to have the blood work done to determine if a deficiency truly existed before considering supplementation. This advice is especially true for dogs who are already on foods containing zinc with good bioavailability, or dogs that are raw fed. These dogs should already be receiving an adequate amount of dietary zinc despite the current marketing hype. |
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| Toxicity |
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| And, if you are considering supplementation without the presence of any clinical symptoms, remember that zinc does have a dark side as well. Because like many things in life, too much of a good thing sometimes turns out quite badly. |
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| Zinc uptake is usually fairly well controlled by the amount of available zinc in the blood plasma and excesses of dietary zinc are usually excreted without incident, however zinc toxicity is not unheard of in dogs. Usually though, this is not a problem that is directly related to supplementation... most zinc toxicity related problems stem from the accidental ingestion of non-food items such as galvanized cage material, batteries, and certain topical ointments. That all being said, should you decide to supplement your dog's diet with zinc, at least be aware of the signs of zinc toxicosis since not all dogs are created equal; |
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lethargy (due primarily to hemolytic anemia)
anorexia
vomiting and/or diarrhea, sometimes with blood present |
abnormal sexual development
hair loss (in chronic cases)
in some cases seizures |
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| If you suspect your dog is suffering zinc toxicosis, get the advice of a veterinary doctor immediately. In severe cases, renal failure is a probable outcome even if the exposure is short term. Know how many milligrams your dog is getting each day, and that includes normal dietary zinc along with any supplements. Independent studies have indicated that toxicity concerns are not really warranted until the amount of ingested zinc starts to approach four times the minimum daily standard... a threshold of about 400ppm (approximately 180mg per pound of food daily). That's a lot of zinc! But once again, not all dogs are exactly the same, and although a large amount of zinc - say 200ppm may not faze a dog with naturally poor or inhibited assimilation, it may become a problem for another dog with hyperassimilation, or inhibited metabolism or elimination. |
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| The final take on zinc, don't supplement or change foods unless you suspect a deficiency problem and your vet confirms it. And, know the warning signs that indicate your dog may be getting too much of a good thing. |
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| June 2006 |
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| Health!
Fungus among us? |
| Aflatoxin is all the talk after last winter's big outbreak. |
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| Due to recent turn of events in the dog food industry, many pet owners have been expressing safety concerns over treats and primary feed items. Here at the bakery, we have received several notes from people with questions about the safety of grain products for their dogs. People want to know what the risks are associated with "mold contamination", of "ingested micro-toxins", of "fungus growth", and others. |
| The event which galvanized the community was of course, the recall by Diamond Pet Food of several varieties of their feed products. Diamond was alerted to the problem by a veterinarian in New York who indicated that three dogs under his care were exhibiting symptoms of liver disease. The common thread was food manufactured by Diamond. | |  |
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| In December, the story was in the press and the papers were reporting that 17 dogs had died, and that 24 more were ill from the food. Diamond investigated and discovered that feed manufactured in their Gaston, South Carolina plant was tainted with aflatoxin. Nudged into action, the company issued a voluntary |
| recall. However, the Gaston facility ships to a distribution network spanning 22 states, and before all was said and done, the final tally of dogs fatally affected by the foods reached into the hundreds. |
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| Time to panic? |
| Nor was this the first time that the killer toxin has been in the news. Late in 1998, approximately 25 dogs reportedly died after eating tainted food from a Temple, Texas pet food manufacturer, in the 80's there was an outbreak in South Africa, and in the 70's one in Georgia. All of these canine deaths were attributed to aflatoxin. Is it an approaching epidemic? Should we panic for our pets? The answer in both cases is "no". However, despite the isolated and infrequent nature of the outbreaks, there is at least some reason for concern. But, concern for what? What is aflatoxin? And more importantly, where does it come from, and how can you avoid it? |
aspergillus flavus | | Aflatoxin is not a living thing, but rather a chemical compound belonging to a class of organic compounds known as mycotoxins. Mycotoxins are defined as toxic substances which are produced by fungus or mold. The two primary fungi responsible for aflatoxins in our food sources are Aspergillus flavus and A. parasiticus. Fungus growth on crop products can occur both in the field, and in storage. It appears that a variety of external crop stresses such as drought conditions, high temperatures, and insect damage may play a role in making the crop susceptible to fungi blooms. And after harvest, timely crop drying and careful control of the product's water content during storage are critical factors in avoiding fungus growth during storage. |
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| Affected products |
| When talking about aflatoxins, the primary foods of interest are corn, peanuts, and cottonseed (oil). Although there is a wider range of products which may be affected, including other nut and grain varieties, these three are the most often affected. By far, the most common aspergillus infestation affects corn, and is known commonly as "ear rot". The fungus growth is familiar to corn farmers, and appears as a grayish-green powdery substance on the plant's ears. Strangely enough, appearance of the fungus does not imply that aflatoxins are present. There seems to be a combination of environmental factors which are necessary to trigger toxin production, and this combination of factors is not currently well understood. | | 
aspergillus growth on corn (ear rot) |
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| Aflatoxin effects |
| The effects of aflatoxins are grouped in two categories depending on whether the exposure is chronic (low levels over a long period of time), or acute (high levels over a short period of time). Low level chronic exposures may be difficult to detect and diagnose, because of the lack of clinical indicators however, symptoms include poor food assimilation, and impaired growth. On the other hand, acute cases are dramatic and target the liver with necrosis (tissue death), cirrhosis, and carcinoma of the organ. The effects of an acute exposure can include internal hemorrhage, edema (fluid retention), poor digestion and absorption. A particularly potent poison, there is no antidote for aflatoxin, and roughly 2/3 of all dogs who show symptoms of exposure will die. | | 
"Sad Sack" died in Cornel's Animal Hospital after aflatoxin exposure |
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| The Food and Drug Administration oversees sampling programs to minimize the risk of aflatoxins in animal feed supplies (this includes pet foods). Additionally, this same agency has more stringent programs in place to control precise limits on allowable aflatoxins in products targeted for human consumption. Although the animal feed sampling programs are continually improving and growing more reliable, there are occasional "escapes" in the system, occurrences where contaminated product is not detected and finds its way into the feed production system. How is this possible? Unfortunately, fungus growth is not always uniform within a crop. In a large shipment of product, fungus (and hence aflatoxins) may be isolated to a small central area, bottom layer, or other pocket which is not sampled. Consequently, the load is approved and delivered to the production mill. On occasion, the mill fails to follow established procedures, and accepts shipment of ingredient lots without appropriate testing. This is (apparently) what happened in the case of the Diamond incident. |
| Prevention? |
| Well, this is all very interesting, however it seems that we are up against the laws of nature and statistics. Is there anything that we can do to minimize our dog's risk of aflatoxin exposure? Fortunately, the answer is "yes". The most important thing we can do is eliminate corn from our dogs diet. If you're a loyal reader, you already know that corn does not belong in your dog's primary feed for nutritional reasons, and here is yet one more reason to avoid it. Although other grain products may have slight risk of aflatoxin contamination, corn is the unabashed and primary culprit here. Secondly, when feeding your dog grains or grain products, ensure that they are human-grade. The FDA regulations on aflatoxin content or our own food are much more stringent than those for animal feed. |
| This is not as hard as it may sound. Fortunately, the manufacturers of most premium and super-premium foods do not use corn or corn products. Additionally, although it's not legal for manufacturers to state "human grade" on their products, many of the premium and super-premium foods are made with ingredients from our own food supply. Implying of course that dogs who are fed a diet comprised of premium or super-premium foods run a much lower risk of experiencing alfatoxicosis. And finally, whereas aflatoxins are usually metabolized and eliminated (rather than accumulated), meats and meat products are generally not viable sources of the potentially deadly toxin. Therefore, if your dog is on a raw diet he is perhaps in the lowest risk group, and may never encounter these fungus by-products. |
| Good information |
| Above all, it pays to be informed! The Food and Drug Administration has a page on their website dedicated to safety issues regarding veterinary products (including feeds). You can find this page at; www.fda.gov/cvm/safeinfo1.html. We highly recommend that you bookmark this page and check it frequently! Not only is there good information on product safety and active recalls, there is also good behind the scenes information such as this warning letter to one dog food manufacturer... www.fda.gov/foi/warning_letters/g5811d.htm. |
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| July 2006 |
|
| Health!
Salmonella |
| Should fear of this microbe affect your decision to feed raw? |
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| Salmonella! The mere word is enough to make most of us recoil in fear. However, most of us don't know much about the dreaded bacteria, where it comes from, why it's dangerous, and what it's potential effects are on both us and our pets. |
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| That's right, both us and our pets... one of the main reasons that salmonella is constantly in the veterinary spotlight is the fact that it is one of only a few very-bad-things which humans can share with their dogs and cats (some others being rabies, lyme disease, giardia, sarcoptic mange and ringworm). Most creatures have their own diseases and are generally unable to share them across the lines drawn by specie. However salmonella is a zoonotic, that is a disease or disease causing agent which is communicable from pets to humans and vice-versa. |
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| Salmonella is not a single bacteria, but rather a family of over 20 unique species, and a couple thousand known serotypes (closely related organisms which produce the same toxins). The primary habitat for Salmonella is the intestinal tract of humans and most animals. Many variants of Salmonella bacteria are host adapted, or found in only one particular type of host animal. S. Typhi shown here to the right is one example of such a variant. S. Typhi is found only in humans, and is responsible for the grave disease we call typhoid fever (or enteric fever). A serious infection in which the bacteria pass through the intestinal wall, and eventually make their way to the blood stream (septicemia). | | 
salmonella typhi |
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s. typhimurium | | Other types of the bacteria (ubiquitous) can be found in the gastro-intestinal tract of more than one host species as well as in the natural environment. One such variant is Salmonella Typhimurium shown here to the left. Generally, the ubiquitous forms of Salmonella are those responsible for food-borne toxic infections (acute gastroenteritis), a condition most people would refer to as "food poisoning". |
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| The bacteria do not multiply rapidly outside of their favorite environment (digestive tract). However, the ubiquitous forms of salmonella may survive in water for several weeks, and in soils several years if the combination of temperature, humidity, and ph are favorable. This ability to survive outside of an animal host for extended periods increases the risk of communicating the infection as the bacteria are shed (passed in the stool) from affected animals. |
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| Generally speaking, humans and dogs alike are fairly resistant to salmonellosis (infection or disease caused by salmonella bacteria). In fact, it is not uncommon to find salmonella organisms in the digestive tract of healthy animals and people. Fortunately, our compliment of normal intestinal flora keep the numbers of harmful invaders relatively low. Low enough that a well-functioning immune system is able to effectively deal with the bacteria, and there are no clinical signs or symptoms of infection. However a few conditions can upset this delicate balance; a significant reduction in the normal intestinal flora (such as after a long course of antibiotics), an under-developed or compromised immune system (the very young, the elderly, or unhealthy individuals) or the introduction of an overwhelming number of salmonella organisms. |
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| Exposure to salmonella |
| In all important cases, salmonella is introduced orally. Once an individual (human or dog) is infected, the bacteria take up residence in the intestinal tract and viable organisms are "shed" from the host via the feces. Very simple, bacteria in one end, out the other. So, the source of infectious material must be... well, you get the idea. Scientists and doctors hence call this a fecal-mouth route of infection. |
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| In under-developed nations, the management of human waste is less than ideal, and poorly treated waste finds its way into rivers and ground water. In these areas, typhoid is not uncommon as the virulent bacteria are ingested either through drinking water or contaminated food from rivers, estuaries, and tidal areas. |
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| In developed nations, the more common exposure is to the ubiquitous form of the bacteria which causes gastroenteritis. Typically, infection is due to either poor hygiene by those involved with food preparation and service, a lack of cleanliness of food preparation surfaces and utensils, or incompletely cooked foods. |
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| Salmonella is also introduced to our dogs by oral route. If your dog is coprophagic (stool eating), there is always the possibility that he may acquire the organisms from the stool of an infected dog. However, the most common source of infection is your dog's own food.. especially so if you are a raw feeder. Perhaps the best publicized study of the raw feeding movement indicated that 80% of raw samples fed to the study dogs tested positive for the presence of salmonella. These "raw samples" were USDA meats of human-grade. Meats that easily could have come from your local grocer. In fact, it's safe to say that the majority of raw meat that we feed our dogs despite the source, carries the salmonella organism. |
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| Some get it.. |
| Salmonella is everywhere, at our favorite restaurant, at our local grocery store, in our own refrigerators and freezers (the bacteria can survive several weeks at freezing temperatures), and yet it does not seem to be an epidemic... why? Well to state it again, both humans and dogs are fairly resistant to salmonellosis. Additionally, preparation kills the bacteria in most human foods as long as cooking temperatures reach 185°F. That's a partial answer to the human question, but what about our dogs who are eating their food raw? |
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| Dogs do have higher resistance to salmonellosis than humans, and very few dogs seem to suffer clinical signs despite the fact that they eat meat containing the organisms raw. Proponents of raw feeding argue that a dog's digestive system is more capable of handling the bacteria since raw food is the natural diet. This may very well be true. The same study mentioned above indicated that only 20% of the study dogs showed evidence of salmonella bacteria in their stool. So if 80% of the input and only 20% of the output is infected, it would appear that the digestive system of the dog is capable of destroying the bacteria. Furthermore, none of the dogs in the study (including those who shed the bacteria in their stool) showed clinical signs of salmonellosis. |
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| Since the report from the above study was published, other independent studies were performed with similar results. In one study, dogs were fed raw meat purposely cultured with salmonella bacterium. Once again, there was a very low percentage of shedding, and no dogs developed clinical symptoms. So if our dogs really are highly resistant to salmonella infection, why are so many vets up in arms over what seems to be a veritable explosion of the raw feeding trend? |
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| If not the obvious loss of revenue due to reduced sales of pricey, yet inferior feeds such as ...well you know, the sort vets normally carry, the only explanation can be concern that raw fed dogs present a health risk to the general public due to the shedding of viable salmonella organisms in their stool. Although this argument may have some merit, it would seem from the numbers above that our favorite grocery store is a greater threat to the public than our dog's feces. |
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| All sarcasm aside, perhaps we should be sensitive to the fact that we do not leave raw chicken or turkey necks lying about in public places where our children play, whereas dogs have a tendency to relieve themselves wherever they like. There is therefore, the possibility of transmission via the fecal-grass-shoe-hand-cookie-mouth route. And obviously we're talking about children here for two reasons; their immune systems are not fully developed, and they are more likely than adults to either place dirty hands in their mouths or eat with dirty hands. |
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| So, have you been drawn to the conclusion that raw feeders have a responsibility to be extra vigilant in protecting the unsuspecting public from their dog's waste? If so, think again because the evidence does not bear this out. Actually, clinical results have shown that over one-third of all dogs test positive for the presence of salmonella bacterium in their stool regardless of their diet. |
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| Prevention? |
| Perhaps the threat of salmonella is not as serious as some would have you believe, however it is always prudent to reduce the risk of infections. For raw feeders, it is of course recommended to exercise all the same precautions used when handling raw meat in the kitchen. After use, all surfaces and utensils should be washed down well with hot soapy water, and to be extra safe use a spray solution of water and household bleach. After meal preparation and feeding, hands should be washed well, preferrably with an anti-bacterial soap. |
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| If you have coprophagic dogs (especially in multiple dog families) or if your dogs share the yard with small children its a good idea to be diligent cleaning up their waste. This is true if you take your dogs out into public areas as well. (Of course, these recommendations generally apply to all, not just raw feeders.) |
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| For those who wonder whether or not raw-fed dogs need to be handled differently to avoid the risk of infection... a study was conducted on dogs which were fed meat known to be infected with salmonella organisms. Oral and anal swabs were taken from the dogs and tested for the presence of the bacterium. None of the dogs tested positive. Additionally, according to statistics compiled by the CDC, the number of human salmonellosis cases reported due to domestic animals and environmental sources is less than eight percent. This particular category covers all domestic animals including cats, small mammals, reptiles (90% of all reptiles test positive for salmonella), birds, and a variety of environmental sources. This leads one to believe that the number of actual cases traced to dogs to be statistically insignificant. |
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| As far as preventative measures to ensure your dog's risk of salmonellosis is minimized, at this time there are none. To date, there has been no real evidence that salmonella poses a threat to your dog's health or well-being. Of course, this does not mean that we should develop a completely cavalier attitude towards their feeding. All raw foods should be kept frozen until needed, thawing should occur in the refrigerator, and the time food spends at temperatures above those in the refrigerator should be minimized. |
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| What to watch for |
| Most likely, you will win the lottery before you contract salmonellosis from your dog (only a slight exaggeration), and your dog's chances of experiencing a serious infection are somewhat less than that. However, there is always the possibility that you may pick up some of the bacteria from an unsanitized countertop or kitchen utensil. There is some small risk to your children playing in the same yard with a shedding dog. And of course your dog may find a piece of putrid meat at a time when his resistance may be low. For these reasons, it is probably important that you know what the clinical signs are, for you, your children, and your pets. |
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| For those of you that have experienced salmonellosis before, you are not likely to have forgotten the signs and symptoms as they can be quite dramatic. Described loosely as "flu-like", an episode usually begins with headache and fever. The fever can spike quite high, and be accompanied with chills and profuse sweating. Shortly after the first warning signs present themselves, there is usually vomiting, diarrhea and abdominal pain. The vomiting is frequent and periodic, and the vomitus may occasionally contain small amounts of blood. Both the vomiting and diarrhea can become violent, and can be for lack of a better term, "gut-wrenching". |
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| In humans, the symptoms usually present themselves anywhere from 12 to 72 hours after exposure, and the whole episode can last from 2 to 5 days. The good news is that the infection normally resolves itself, and medical intervention is usually not neccessary. That being said, should the symptoms appear in a very young child, an elderly individual, someone who is excessively frail, or especially one who is immuno-compromised, medical attention should be sought immediately. |
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| Salmonellosis in dogs is most commonly asymptomatic (presents no signs or symptoms). However, in severe cases can result in fever, anorexia, vomiting and diarrhea which may include mucous and blood. The only definitive diagnosis of salmonellosis in dogs is by fecal culture. Of course, should these symptoms present themselves, a trip to the vet is definitely warranted.. in many cases, salmonellosis will resolve itself, however in dogs there appears to be a slightly greater risk of the bacteria invading the bloodstream and becoing septicemia. Additionally, the vet will make a definitive diagnosis which is very important as these symptoms are common to a variety of bad conditions including canine parvovirus. |
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| The verdict |
| So it would appear from the current information that salmonella poses no serious threat to our dogs. In fact, a high percentage of them are living with the organism right now, with no clinical signs of infection. In fact, known studies seem to show that the dog's digestive system is well adapted to handling this otherwise harmful bacteria. |
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| As with all things in life, this may not apply to all individuals though. Puppies, seniors, unhealthy dogs, and dogs with suppressed immune systems may be susceptible to a large scale infection by the bacteria. Furthermore, if the clinical signs include blood in the diarrhea, there is the additional possibility that the intestinal mucosa may be compromised and septicemia looms as a real possibility. |
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| For us humans sharing the household with raw-fed dogs, the dangers seem no greater than would otherwise be expected from increased handling of raw meat in the kitchen. Excercising the proper precautions in keeping food preparation surfaces, utensils, and hands clean and disinfected minimize the risk of us having one miserable week of severe "flu-like" symptoms. |
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| Even the waste from raw-fed dogs does not seem to be any more of a health threat than that from kibble-fed pets. Remember that over one third of all dogs - regardless of diet, test positive for salmonella in their stool. Proper hygiene in the yard will help reduce the risk of sharing micro-organisms between dogs, and with the children who may play in the same space. |
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| Ultimately, the decision to feed raw food to your dogs has to be made by you. The current campaigns being waged to curb the raw food trend based on the dangers of salmonellosis seem to be at odds with the results of recent studies. It makes one wonder what the real motivation behind these campaigns is. |
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 | | If you have an interest in feeding raw foods to your dogs, a good first step is "Switching to Raw" by Susan Johnson. This easy read answers all the common questions, dispells the myths, and lays out a comprehensive meal planner. It is everything that you need to get your dog started on raw foods. |
| You can find Susan Johnson's book HERE. |
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Health Taurine
This amino acid is not just for cats anymore.
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| Typically when one's thoughts turn to taurine, a feline image comes to mind. And rightly so - taurine is a critical component of the feline diet since Tabby is incapable of synthesizing this important amino acid. Well almost everyone knows this, or at least remembers hearing it before. But, did you know that dogs can experience taurine deficiency as well? |
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| We've already given half the story away - taurine is an amino acid. However it is an unusual one. Unlike most amino acids, taurine is not used in the synthesis of protein. Rather it is found free, or bound into simple peptides (short chains of amino acids). In dogs, taurine is considered to be conditionally-essential implying that the substance is required for certain biological functions, however the dog's body is capable of synthesizing much (if not all) of what it needs. |
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| Taurine is one of the most abundant free amino acids in many of the body's tissues including skeletal and cardiac muscle, and the brain. In fact, taurine comprises over 50% of the heart's pool of free amino acids. Taurine is metabolized in a variety of biological functions, and has shown useful in protecting the heart from fluctuations in calcium ion levels, and protecting the body from toxins, including those originating from intestinal bacteria (endotoxins). It appears to be important in preventing retinal degeneration, and has shown promise in preventing seizures such as those symptomatic of epilepsy. Additionally, low serum levels of taurine have been implicated in such diseases as alzheimer's and diabetes. |
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| It has been generally accepted that dogs are capable of synthesizing the taurine necessary to maintain related biological functions. And, since dogs are primarily carnivores, whatever demand they are unable to meet via synthesis, they can fulfill through the diet. In recent years, research has indicated that not all dogs have the same capacity for taurine synthesis. In fact some breeds, notably some large and giant breeds, have a genetic predisposition towards taurine synthesis deficiency causing them to rely more heavily on diet for the supply of this vital nutrient. Notably, Newfoundlands and Doberman Pinschers have been shown to have a genetic tendency towards low taurine levels. Other breeds which are currently suspected as being predisposed to taurine deficiency are Boxers, Cockers, and Golden Retrievers. | | 
newfoundland - low taurine? |
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| However, as the diets of many domesticated dogs have migrated from a natural, meat-centric diet to one that is designed around inexpensive grains, taurine deficiencies have begun to present themselves. Taurine is not present in plant materials, and although many manufacturers of dog feed add taurine to the blend, the levels present in the food may not be sufficient to meet the needs of specific dogs. |
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| It seems that the most common manifestation of taurine deficiency is cardio-vascular disease, specifically a condition known as dilated cardiomyopath or DCT for short. In DCT, the heart becomes dilated (enlarged) and it's contractility (ability to contract) is impaired, reducing the organ's ability to circulate blood. | | 
enlarged heart indicating DCT |
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| Although a link between taurine deficiency and DCT has been strongly suggested, there is much that is not understood. The cause for the initial taurine deficiency has not been established, although evidence suggests a combination of genetic pre- |
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| disposition and diet. Also, the therapeutic effects of supplemental taurine on dogs with DCT and other cardio-vascular diseases is not well understood. |
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| Although preventative doses of taurine have not been firmly established, current thinking indicates that these should be in the range of 125mg per 10 pounds of body weight. So, turn the bag over and read the label of your dog's food. Make sure that he is receiving ample taurine in his diet, especially if he belongs to a large or giant breed which is susceptible to cardio-vascular disease. And, given that taurine is a free amino acid, and easily eliminated.. too much is better than too little. |
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| July 2007 |
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| Health!
Some Sound Advice |
| Caring for ear problems. |
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| Without doubt, ear problems are high on the list of most common complaints heard in veterinary offices. Well known for their ability to detect sounds way beyond the range of most human ears, these super-sensitive organs cause numerous problems for dogs. Fortunately, dogs are not very good at hiding problems with their ears, so they should be fairly obvious. If you have noticed frequent head shaking, pawing at the ears, or a constant rubbing of the head on the carpet or against the furniture, these actions could be clues that your dog is experiencing some discomfort and needs help. |
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| The design of the canine ear is part of the reason why our little buddies are so susceptible to ear-related ailments. In the human ear, the ear canal takes a fairly straight horizontal path to the ear drum. However in the dog's ear, the ear canal has both a vertical and horizontal passage as shown below. This 'hockey stick' shape of the dog's ear canal does not promote good air flow, and makes complete drying difficult. The resulting warm, moist environment is a happy place for bacteria. In dogs with dropped or long droopy ears, this problem is exaggerated by further restriction of air flow in the ear canal. Some breeds have genetic conditions which likewise increases their risk of infection due to poor air circulation in the ear. These factors include abundant hair growth within the canal as with English Spaniels and Poodles, and narrow ear canal structure as in the Shar-Pei. | |  |
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| There are a variety of bacteria which are capable of setting up housekeeping in your pets ears, however acute infections (characterized by rapid onset and short duration) are typically caused by one of the staphylococci bugs, and can usually be identified by a light brown, moist discharge in the ear. Chronic ear infections (characterized by long durations, and persistent reoccurrence) on the other hand, are usually a result of one of the pseudomonas, and may be identified by a yellowish or greenish discharge. Both types of bacterial infection present good resistance to your animal's own immune system, and will most likely require antibiotic treatment... so, if you suspect a bacterial infection schedule a trip to the vet as soon as possible. |
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| A moist environment within the ear can also set the stage for a yeast, or fungal infection. The classic, tell-tale sign that yeast or fungus is out of control, is a waxy brown discharge in the ear. Usually, this discharge is accompanied by a rancid odor. These types of ear infections have a variety of causes. In some cases, occurring as a secondary infection arising from antibiotic treatment. However, as spores are constantly in the air all around us, an opportunistic plant needs only a warm, humid, cozy place to gain a foothold. | | 
Malassezia pachydermatis is perhaps the most common organism seen in canine ear infections. |
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| Typically, the normal flora and fauna of your dogs ear along with his own immune system can keep these little invaders at bay. Sometimes though, your dogs system may be challenged by other stresses which could leave the door open to unwanted visitors. Commonly, the real culprit is an atopic allergic response to an inhaled allergen such as pollen, something the |
| dog has come in direct contact with such as a household chemical or plant secretion, or even something the dog has eaten. Part of your dogs natural allergic response may (directly or indirectly) cause an increase in the ears natural secretions, and the resulting build-up of organic material in the ear creates a safe haven for fungus and yeast. |
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| Foreign objects can also pave the way to infection by causing a cycle of itch and scratch. The constant physical trauma to the ear from both the object's irritation and the dogs incessant scratching will lead to increased secretions, build-up within the ear, and infection. It does not take much to start this damaging cycle. Dogs who are used to running through tall grass can easily get seeds, chaff, and other plant matter lodged in their ears, which may cause irritation of the ear canal membranes, and eventually lead to a more serious infection if not dealt with. |
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| The first step in dealing with ear problems is a good and thorough cleaning of the ear. Coincidentally, this is also the most important preventative measure in keeping healthy ears trouble-free. Now, routine cleaning of your dog's ears is not terribly difficult, however we cannot overstress the delicate and sensitive nature of a dog's horizontal ear canal passage. Remember that if you cannot see it, don't clean it! And, what this means with heavily fouled ears where there may be significant build-up within the horizontal passage is a trip to the vet. Your vet will want to examine this sensitive portion of the ear with an otoscope before proceeding, and in some cases may have to use sedation in order to effectively clean the ears. | |
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| So, the cleaning we will do at home will be limited to the ear flap and upper end of the vertical canal passage. During this process, we will allow cleaning solution to flow down into the ear, but we will not reach down into the hidden portions of the ear with a Q-tip or other instrument. One more warning before proceeding - most dogs do not enjoy having their ears cleaned, and can become a handful during the process.. this is normal. However, if your dog should exhibit signs of severe pain or distress during the cleaning, stop immediately and schedule a look-see with your vet. Don't put this off! It is not uncommon for a dog's highly sensitive ear drum to become perforated as a result of infection, and this is a serious health hazard that needs to be professionally addressed immediately! |
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| There are many recipes for ear cleaning solutions and ear washes on the internet. Additionally, there are several commercial solutions available (all with remarkably similar chemistries). But in the end, there are only two things that are important, softening the waxy build-up in the ear, and then flushing it out. One of the best, and safest home remedies for the softening of ear wax is virgin olive oil, although you may also use mineral oil. Start by placing a few drops of oil in each ear, and massaging the ear gently. Let the oil sit for a couple of minutes before flushing. |
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| Once the wax has had a chance to soften, it may be rinsed out of the ear with a simple solution of baking soda and water. Place one cup of water in a squirt bottle (available in beauty salons) and add 1 1/2 teaspoons of baking soda. Cover the bottle and shake well. Fill each ear gently to overflowing, and then tilt the head and allow the solution to flow out, gently wiping down all visible areas of the ear flap and upper canal with lightly with a cotton swab. It may be necessary to repeat this process twice a day for a couple of days to get the ears clean. While cleaning the ears, remember that cold fluids in the ear are not only very uncomfortable, but they may also cause mild dizziness. Slightly warm your baking soda solution by placing it in a cup of warm water for a few minutes before using! |
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| Once the ears are clean, you will need to administer a daily wash to discourage the yeast and fungus from getting too comfortable. Once again, there are many recipes floating around, and a number of commercial ones available. However, clinical trials have shown excellent results with a simple home-made solution of acetic acid (vinegar) and boric acid (umm.. boric acid). Although this sounds harsh, boric acid is actually soothing to the ear and though it may technically be a poison, it is considered to be no more toxic than ordinary table salt. (In fact, boric acid is used as an antiseptic on cuts and burns, and is the only acid known to be beneficial to the eye.) | |
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| Fill your squirty bottle again with one cup of apple cider vinegar, one cup of water, and two teaspoons of boric acid (available through many pharmacies). Warm this solution gently as before, and shake well until the boric acid is dissolved. Gently fill each ear canal to overflowing, and then tilt the head to allow it to flow out. Moisten a cotton swab with the solution and gently wipe all visible areas of the ear flap and upper canal. This process repeated faithfully twice a day for two weeks should yield remarkable results! |
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| Now, one last and very important point. Removing the build-up in the ears, and giving the yeast and or fungus the boot will not be 100% effective unless the root problem is addressed. As mentioned earlier, increased secretions in the ear which cause the excessive waxy build-up are usually the result of either a foreign material in the ear, or an allergic response. In the case of foreign objects, a ritualistic ear wash one to two times a month should solve this problem. For this purpose, either of the two solutions mentioned above will work, although the apple cider vinegar/boric acid solution will have the most added benefits. |
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| If your dog is showing other pruritic signs such as excessive biting of the feet or base of the tail, or constant scratching especially of the belly area. You may want to consider switching foods. Not just brands, but the type of protein the food is based on. Read the ingredients, if your current food is deriving its protein content from beef, you may want to try chicken or even better yet, fish. In some cases, you may have to resort to a novel protein (one your dog has not been exposed to before) such as lamb, venison or rabbit. If your food ingredient panel is showing more grains than meat, especially corn and soy, switch brands (and discard the left-overs!). |
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